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| Clear Pickguard installation http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4425 |
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| Author: | KiwiCraig [ Sun Jan 08, 2006 7:13 pm ] |
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G'Day everyone ! I've just strung up my first and intended to not include a scratch plate as I do not use a plectrum. However, after a little playing have noticed some marks I have caused , between the soundhole and bridge (just under the 1st string).Caused by my little finger ,or third, resting on the soundboard. I thought I might install a mini plate to just cover that area ??? Do you think this is acceptable ) The finish is Hardened French Polish.It,s barely been on a month (couldn't wait any longer). This product i got here in Australia. "Hardened" it ain't ,so far. Hope that situation improves soon ! Anyhow my main point is can anyone give some advise on installing the clear guard. I've heard it's a tricky thing to perform. I've read Frank Fords advise on installation with the water treatment (Yikes !) scares me somewhat,particularly with F.P. Kind regards to you all!! KiwiCraig (maker of boot polish and grower of fruit) |
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| Author: | Dave White [ Sun Jan 08, 2006 8:26 pm ] |
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Craig, I've used Frank's water method on french polished guitars to install clear pickguatds and it works a treat - no bubbles, dust or wrikles and the water comes out the other side. Like you I was apprehensive at first but it's a fantasric soltion. Just do excactly as Frank shows on frets.com. Just make sure that you have the rag's/towel or whatever in the soundhole and kitchen paper towel handy to wipe the water off the top at the end. Also that your finish is hard enough to take the pressing down of the pickguard without marking. |
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| Author: | John Kinnaird [ Sun Jan 08, 2006 11:04 pm ] |
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I do the water thing as well. It really helps eliminate the trapped air. John |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 2:39 am ] |
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I use water as well and it works great. The adhesives don't react with water. The difference is that although you will still get tiny pockets of water when you lay it down, the water will come out as you squeegy it to the edge. Air pockets will compress and are less motivated to move when you push them. |
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| Author: | Josh H [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:30 am ] |
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I do it without water and don't have any trouble. The nice thing is that if you do mess up you can get the guard off with a hair dryer and try again. I had to do this once or twice when I was first learning to apply them. I have been able to get them down no problem without the water, so I will probably continue to do them that way. However the water idea does make sense and I have give it a try sometime. Josh |
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| Author: | KiwiCraig [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 10:51 pm ] |
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Many thanks for your advice guys. How do you cut the shape and have a nice edge ? KiwiCraig |
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| Author: | Dave White [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:08 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=KiwiCraig] How do you cut the shape and have a nice edge ? [/QUOTE] I use the sheets that Stew-Mac sells and this cuts fine with sharp scissors. I don't worry about bevelling the edges or anything - it is thin enough and looks fine from a sharp scissor cut. I'm sure others will have their own techniques. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Jan 10, 2006 8:04 am ] |
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I cut the thin stuff with a xacto knife and ruler for all the straight edges, then trim the corners round with a small new pair of henckel scissors. At the soundhole, i use the bottom of a 4 inc diameter can as a guide. I was using the water method for a while, but now find that I can get then down just as easy without. And like Josh said, with a little heat, I use a heat gun, they come right back up. |
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