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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:15 am 
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Koa
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Another trick for pulling CA-glued frets with an iron is to actually run a bead of solder along the fret..this helps transmit the heat more.

I have a question about the fretted fingerboard geometry, a la Hesh and Mario: Could you explain the benefit of having a slight drop-off past 15? I've understood that for electrics, the optimum shape is to have a light amount of bow in the top of the neck and then to have it straight in the back half. I think this is intended to give you a more consistent action along the higher frets.

Thanks in advance for any insight you may be able to give...!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:51 am 
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probably to avoid buzz.  bass strings vibrate with a larger amplitude. On many classicals the bass side of the FB is planed more, starting at the 10th or even lower. 

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:57 am 
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What Alex said, but also because as the body distorts slowly with time, if it's dead-flat at first, you then end up with a ski-jump. 


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:36 am 
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[QUOTE=grumpy] My only use for franklin's liquid hide glue, makes the frets go in soooo nicely, yet holds 'em like the dickens! Stiffens the board, too.[/QUOTE]

That addresses one of my questions. So, you put Franklin's liquid hide glue in the slots (or on the tangs) first, press the frets in, then re-straighten the board. Do you re-straighten the board immediately, before the glue has fully set? Or do you let the glue harden, then re-straighten the board? If you do the latter, then you must not be having an issue with the hardened glue in the slots interfering with the re-straightening of the board (this is in reference to what I was discussing earlier in this thread: that the re-straightening of the board involves forcing the tang barbs to bite a bit further into the walls of the slots, allowing the slots to close up a little tighter around the tangs, thus removing the back bow). Any further comment on that?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Am I driving you nuts with my questions or did you just miss this one?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:00 pm 
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I would like to hear an answer to this question too Todd. If I were doing it with Franklin hide glue I would fret the board and then clamp the board down on a flat surface while the glue hardened, and then glue it down onto the neck. If I had to straighten out any left over backbow I would hope the neck could do that job and be prestressed against string pull in the process.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:28 pm 
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Send $$ via Paypal ad I'll answer more promptly.

 Yes, after fretting, clamp that sucker flat. And yes again, the next day, you can still force it backwards to take out the bow. In fact, you will have to do so, to do so. The glue doesn't interfere... it WILL make awful noises, but just ignore them.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:52 pm 
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I just fretted a board with titebond a couple hours prior to reading this thread. I clamped it all up good and tight on a straight piece of ply and it took out all but a bit of backbow.

One day I hope to know enough to charge for advice. Will I have to adopt a dwarf moniker then as well???

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:34 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:35 pm 
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Thanks, Mario.

It occurs to me that this could be a good use for fish glue, in that the slow cure time of the glue would allow plenty of time for fretting and straightening of the board before the glue hardens. Just a thought.

Thanks again.

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We need a "Mean Queen", as my granddaughter calls her. 

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:57 am 
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[political comment pre-edited by Parser]

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Yeah, Parser, and don't you think that, ever again! 

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:17 am 
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What about fret material? Comments on stainless, advantages/disadvantages.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:43 am 
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It's the only way to go.....

Some day, 80 years from now, our great grandkids will be sitting around asking for some reproduction, soft NS fretwire for a vintage 1990's guitar that they wish to remain original.


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