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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:05 pm 
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Koa
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Here`s the first neck ,I meant to post.
Back to the rose bowl.
                        James

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:28 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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2nd pic is nice, both the way it shows the glue line and corresponding cap shape, and the neck itself. 

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:35 pm 
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Koa
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Thanks Alex.Although I can see where I need to remove a little material on the left side of the heel right below the cap.Pictures help.I just hope that real craftsmanship isn`t lost to the CNC.Just an old timers opinion.
             James

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:08 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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[QUOTE=James W B] Thanks Alex.Although I can see where I need to remove a little material on the left side of the heel right below the cap.Pictures help.I just hope that real craftsmanship isn`t lost to the CNC.Just an old timers opinion.
               James[/QUOTE]

...but CNC stands Craftsmanship by Numeric Control...

On necks I've made I've progressed through the following methods, all of which made fine necks (though the last one pretty much bats 1000 on perfect necks)

1- Spokeshave to rasp to 'shoe shine' sanding starting with 80 grit with scraping and finally 220 grit

2- Spokeshave for about 30 seconds taking huge cuts and then belt sander with the 220 grit just to clean off the belt scratches

3- Put blank in Fadal, wait a few minutes, take blank out and finish sand

Of the manual ones, I liked the feel of carving a neck with a good rasp but the belt sander really provides the results and you can carve any sort of wonky wood without worrying about tearout.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:00 pm 
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Band saw roughly to shape then hit it with the Japanese saw file, never cloggs course one side, fine the other. Then second cut rasp and sandpaper. Heel I carve mostly with laminated knife. especially on Spanish heel where access can be a problem, but course and second cut rasps also used.

Colin

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:54 am 
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[QUOTE=Hesh] To shape my necks I use a cell phone - and call John Watkins......[/QUOTE]

HA!

Kinda like, "What does your wife make for dinner that you like best.......reservations!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:54 am 
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Happy New Year Hesh!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:55 am 
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And to all on the OLF!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:56 am 
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[QUOTE=Terry Stowell]

That's funny Hesh. I did use one of his premade necks successfully, in a hurry. Saved some time. Of course, I still had to shape that rectangular paddle into a curvy headstock though... It's a great option. Back to our original question....


Anyone post some pix for mitch?

[/QUOTE]

What? RESHAPED the paddle? So, THAT'S why my customer was so mad!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:25 am 
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I just hope that real craftsmanship isn`t lost to the CNC

This is a huge misconception that I continually see pop-up. Just because something is digital does not mean that it is not art. All the CNC does is provide a quicker path towards the realization of a design...and it is THE way to go if you want to do production. In the end, it is always your vision and design that dictate a successful product, and not the manner in which the sawdust is separated from the neck.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:55 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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I use chisel, RO and a pneumatic blatter sanding drum. Most of the heel material removal is done with chisel. The beam with RO using 60p/80p grit and the final heel and transition into the beam with the pneumatic blatter drum sander and the fin sanded by hand.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 6:22 am 
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I use this dead head sander (idea borrowed from Charles Fox) for the neck and a spindle sander chucked in a drill press for the heel.


For final shaping of the transitions, I have an extra set of rubber spindles I use by hand. Varying sizes of sanding spindles is a great way to get the transitions fair.



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 6:23 am 
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Cool setup Kent!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 6:33 am 
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Kent - That is a great device!  Could you post a pic showing the whole set-up?


TIA,


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:00 am 
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[QUOTE=WaldenWorx]

Kent - That is a great device! Could you post a pic showing the whole set-up?


TIA,

[/QUOTE]
I second that

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:10 am 
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Thanks. It took some time to work out the kinks but it works great now.


I get asked about it a lot so I put this together...


www.chassonguitars.com/necksander.htm


 


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:26 am 
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[QUOTE=grumpy] Lancelot, rasps, files, big sanding block and 80 grit, scrapers, 280 grit sandpaper.in that order.<div style=": ; width: 28px; height: 28px; : 1000; display: none;">
[/QUOTE]

Lancelot?!? You mean one of those circular chain saw thingies in an angle grinder? Can't picture it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:45 am 
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Black and Decker power file.

Takes about 15 minutes to get it to rough shape then finish up with files and sandpaper.



Bob

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:51 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Over here it's sawn on the bandsaw, then spokeshave, rasp, files, sandpaper. I use the spindle sander in the transition to the heel around the time I'm rasping.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:42 am 
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ancelot?!? You mean one of those circular chain saw thingies in an angle grinder? Can't picture it.


Yessir! Fear not, it leaves a surprisingly nice surface....







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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:58 am 
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Kent - I went to your site and must say that your neck sander is quite the real deal!


I was wondering if you had thought of using high mole weight HDPE on the dead head corners to reduce friction?


[QUOTE=Kent Chasson]


I use this dead head sander (idea borrowed from Charles Fox) for the neck and a spindle sander chucked in a drill press for the heel.


For final shaping of the transitions, I have an extra set of rubber spindles I use by hand. Varying sizes of sanding spindles is a great way to get the transitions fair.



[/QUOTE]


Thanks,
                     Steve


 and Mcain - sorry if this is a hijack!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:00 am 
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Mitch - sorry that should have been > mgcain !

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:27 am 
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Steve, looks like I left out a detail. You can see it in some of the photos but I didn't specifically mention the graphite backer on the deadhead (available from Grizzly parts dept). That's about as friction free as it gets but it also caused some problems in the beginning as loose graphite from the pad coated the back of the belt and the spindle so the belt slipped badly. I cleaned both and added the pinch-roller/skateboard and it does fine now. Takes well under 5 minutes from rectangular to finished.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:37 am 
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I believe you Mr grumpy ,but it sure scares me.Maybe someday we will all be replaced by machines.
Blade Runner.
                    James W B

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:46 am 
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Kent, I bet that jig works great (love the skate board ajuster!), but how much of the dust generated are you able to collect?

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