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Just saw this. Anyone try it? Looks cool.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?fbclid=IwAR ... e=youtu.be

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

That's an easier way than what I did, however mine guarantees perfect placement where K&K recommends it. It uses magnets above and below so no need to drill any holes (same as his video).

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=51437

Bummer that the tapatalk image links are busted, I'm not sure I still have the images I took.

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Actually I found them. The strip of ebony indexes off the saddle slot on the bridge and puts the magnets right where they need to be to mate with the magnets on the inside caul. It was fun to design it.
















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Real neat, but I just used the G clamp method AFTER marking the positions BEFORE closing the box!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I've used it and like it. Low Tech!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Cripes! Isn't that elegantly simple and effective.

I could see that in gluing cleats for cracks as well.

Wow, how could I've missed that seeing as I usually have flair for the obvious .
Like JF says, "elegantly simple and effective".
Brillant! Thanks for posting.
I like brads too.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

I like what he is doing with the rest of it being he installs the jack last instead of first.

I do it differently and the first thing I do or did Friday with two Collings that had minis installed is topside stretch the pup out and see if I need to tie a loose knot in the cable to take up the slack. I like the cable suspended in the box and unable to touch and rattle on any surfaces inside the box. I learned the knot thing from my friend Link Van Cleave.

So I added a knot for both Collings because the cable was too long. Then I install the jack and then one transducer at a time I put a very small drop of medium Bob Smith purple top CA in the center. The drop is approx 1/8" on the transducer so you can see there is very little to squeeze out and glue my finger to the guitar. Most of the time I do not glue my finger to the guitar and when I do it's a very minor contact and pulls right off because I use very little glue.

Prior to this though I prepared the bridge plate which means a feel to make sure it's flat and they rarely are and often have wood fibers from the manufacturing process sticking up. So I hit it with 120 quad folded paper and smooth things out a bit.

Next I wipe it, the plate with a clean paper towel and get my sanding dust and debris out.

Finally to prepare the plate I spritz a clean paper towel with CA accelerant and I wipe the plate down. This way when the transducer is in place it grabs the CA faster and I'm holding it in place not as long.

Now placement of the transducers contrary to K & K's instructions with their silly golf T is NOT nearly as critical as anyone seems to claim. The elements can be off 1/4 to 1/2" and I would defy people to be able to reliably in a blind listening test tell the difference.

Dave made a cool teflon tool with two teflon pins that registers on the holes and holds the transducer with a drop of glue until it's placed. No added prep is required to use the tool and it works great.

Since I never can find the tool I learned to do it free hand, yep free hand and I've done many, many this way. With my light over head, plate prepared as noted, 1/8" small drop of medium CA I look though the pin holes, see my transducer and then pull it forward the amount I believe would clear the pins and press it in place. I hold for about 7 - 10 seconds and the CA accelerator and CA do the rest. Quick look with a mirror and it's in place or very close.

Again exact placement and it's requirement with these is BS in my experience and not necessary. It's a great pup by the way, highly recommended!

I do like what this guy is doing though because it's dials in placement and really does not take any more time to use the method. The only other change to what I do now is installing the jack last.

Thanks for posting this Terry I'm going to give it a try this week when I install a K & K again.

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Ann Arbor Guitars

It’s been a while since it’s not my preferred pickup, but don’t they ship with an installation jig?

Yes, they do.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Yeah, this thread got a little muddy.

The OP video is for installing in a classical. The K&K instructions for a classical are to drill holes in the saddle slot for locating the pickup. This is a no-no depending on the instrument.

My assumption is the OP video is using a clamp to avoid drilling the slot. My jig did the same as I was not about to drill into the saddle slot on the instrument I put that pickup in.

Steel string for K&K install is much easier all around.


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Makes sense…

I have been pretty happy with the K&K jig but being a belt and suspenders guy I usually stand there and hold it with finger pressure for a couple of minutes. The clamp would help there. I might try it.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.