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I have used thin superglue to wick in threaded inserts in necks for a long time (before I went back to hangar bolts). This worked fine and gave the extra bit of hold that sometimes seemed to be necessary to keep the insert from threading back out of the heel. But, I did this on one guitar a couple of years ago where I used a fairly porous piece of African Mahogany for the neck, and the thin superglue wicked right through the heel and left nasty looking dark spots on the heel. Turns out, it didn't matter--I wetted the heel down with Naphtha to get an idea of what it would look like under a finish, and it was OK. I finished this guitar using Royal Lac, and the superglue spots disappeared under the finish. But it's something worth considering.

I'd use a medium CA before threading in the inserts in the future to avoid that wicking problem.

Dave

At this point reading your post, I was thinking "wow, that actually works and doesn't soak all the way through the heel?"

Thin CA can work miracles, but it sure goes everywhere.

As I said in our last neck bolting thread, I want to try lag screws threading straight into the wood. As long as you're careful to find the existing thread if you ever take the neck off and put it back on, they shouldn't ever wear out. And the high friction of screwing into wood will eliminate the issue of metal bolts vibrating their way loose when they lose tension due to humidity shrinkage.

Ive Never had an Issue with SS Interesting

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Some tips to avoid galling.
https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-g ... 20coatings.

Some of the new materials proposed for truss rods (stainless, titanium) seem to be the same ones prone to galling if not treated carefully.
Another metal prone to galling - aluminium. I have a Kern level permanently welded to a Wild tribrach from the simple action of screwing one to the other. It works fine but no longer fits in the carrying case.

I uses this bolt for my guitar building, its easy to buy here, usually for knock down furniture...

sorry for double uploaded