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I have 1 coat of Osmo on it now, and tried it out. It still needs a little fine tuning on the throat. but it cut pretty good. Looking at it today in the sun, I can see areas in the throat that are pinched. The X-Acto will take care of that.

About .019" thick chips; maybe knock the blade back a bit. I think .012-.015 would be better. Not sure if that would help cutting against the ribbons, but the chips might flow better.

The wedge works sorta like a chip breaker. I think I'll smooth it back into a chip curler, to keep the chips moving.

The back has 2 pieces of foam under it to raise it up. Foam in the middle was too thick, and the edge went above the form. It seems to work pretty good. Maybe a few pieces of wood screwed on to the form that you can twist out of the way, to put it in, and take it out. Then you could work without having to hold it down.

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Why be normal?

Hutch, that shop is looking good now. My bench isn't as long, and if you are working on one end, there isn't as much space on the other. Power tools around the outside seems like a good idea.

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Why be normal?

Oops, double posted.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Shops looking good, Hutch! Looking forward to seeing your progress.


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I love that plane, nice work. I'll talk to you when I get back to building mandolins. I've got an A model in process buty O got this guitar bug right now.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Thought I'd already posted this
W.I.P.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Colin without wishing to seem thick... what exactly does the enormously elaborate jig do?

Cheers Dave

Its a Headstock repair jig, necessitated often by Gibson ownership (other guitars types available) combined with knocking them off guitar stands.
Enables accurate line-up and firm clamping/gluing.
Dave Collins (https://www.annarborguitars.com/) made the original I believe, and various versions seem to have been made by others based on that one.
Video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6lzTM__Yrs&t=84s
It can also be used to glue scarf joints for new guitar necks.
Here's the repair I have waiting for the jig.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Here are some Photos of my unbelievable large shop[SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND SMILING EYES], some jigs and tools I made during the last year, some necks and the wood I will build wo guitars with.
The woods are EIR back and sides and a torrified Adirondak spruce top for a 000 and Cypress back and sides and a 50 years old libanon cedar or not so old western red cedar top for a flamenco guitar. The last photo is my first try out of scrap wood of an Jeffrey Elliot pinless bridge. The necks are reinforced with ebony, and the 000 will have a trussrod.

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Yea I think we all can symphasise but great things come out of these spaces!

Dave

Right Thanks Colin. Hard to believe that joint will hold without reinforcement.

Dave

Little shenanigans with the laser last night. Cork and leather top protector.

Here is the starting product - https://a.co/d/iQIjjqJ












Brad


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Looks great Brad. Now to address the tools that keep falling off the pegboard on to your guitar!

I love that Brad…

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

My shields I use at work are cork and a hardware store "For sale" plastic sign I cut up but your's are WAY better Brad.

Please consider productizing these and offering them for sale commercially and if you do I will take the following please:

1) dread
2) OM
3) Classical
4) Les Paul

SO naturally you have a great idea here and I can see it expanded to heat shields for bridge removal too.

Smaller shield, we make ours out of cardboard covered in tin foil (when I am not wearing the tin foil on my head...). But commercially available heat shields for bridge removal with popular bridge shapes pre-cut-out would be another killer product that I would purchase.

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Ann Arbor Guitars

Buffing out the ziri 00. That’s just the first compound, I think it’s gonna shine. I also added some padding to the pedestal. I’m determined to get instruments out the door without having to repair them.







Brad


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Beautiful!

Love that rubber-buffer-baby-bumper setup Brad. Thinks I will emulate that! Super fine finish too, I’m envious.

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

All done. Maybe making music by the weekend!



Brad


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Got to use the 315g HHG today finally. Followed Bob Gramman’s workflow shared in the last OLF Roundtable. Worked great, thanks Bob!













Brad


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Brad I throw bridges in our wimpy 600 watt microwave for 12 seconds and it makes them almost too hot to handle and works great for preheating prior to HHG deployment and slathering. It only takes 12 second too

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Ann Arbor Guitars

I've been refining my bridge glue operation lately and have a quick tip to add.

I used to protect the top with cardboard and foil and heat the top area with a hot air gun ahead of HHG.

For the last three I tried a heat transfer block made of some handy 3/4 hardwood cut to the bridge shape and sanded to the top radius. I rounded off all the corners to protect the top if I drop it and gouged out some crude "handles" into the sides for grip. Heat by whatever means you choose.

I figured the contact with the top was about perfect and the wood would be unlikely get so hot, or hold so much heat, it would release anything unintended. Seemed like a safe approach and worked well. Nice to take more of the stress out of bridge gluing. For me, it's finally a routine process.

Heat it up, place it on the top while the bridge is heating and that's it. Eliminated heating tools other than a hotplate or something and all the protective stuff for the top. Easily warmed up the top to - hot to the touch and nothing more.

I made the bridge radius sander from MDF pushed around on a radius dish.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED