Official Luthiers Forum!

Solely owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Wed Feb 19, 2020 11:03 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 2:51 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Thu Jul 16, 2009 2:19 pm
Posts: 551
Location: Sugar Land, TX
First name: Ed
Last Name: Haney
City: Sugar Land (Houston)
State: Texas
Zip/Postal Code: 77479
Focus: Build
Just wondering how many different ways are out there for putting the radius on head and tail blocks where they glue to the curved rims?

I know some use:
- large disk sander
- a plane
- belt sander
- sine table with a sander

What is your detailed approach for accuracy and ease on this step?

Thank you!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 4:24 pm 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 10510
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
Last Name: Breakstone
City: Tecumseh and Ann Arbor
State: Michigan
Country: United States
Status: Professional
A cool way that I learned back in the day was to make a positive of the radius I want and then slather on Bondo to a block of wood, cover with waxed paper and press it onto the radiused form and leave until the bondo dries. I still have my blocks I made this way and they have yet to rust. :)

_________________
Ann Arbor Guitars
World-Class Repair and Restoration
http://www.annarborguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 4:56 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
Posts: 4143
First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Hesh wrote:
A cool way that I learned back in the day was to make a positive of the radius I want and then slather on Bondo to a block of wood, cover with waxed paper and press it onto the radiused form and leave until the bondo dries. I still have my blocks I made this way and they have yet to rust. :)

Hesh, that sounds like making a radius block for sanding a fretboard radius - ?
Think OP is asking about fitting neck and tail blocks to sides.

_________________
“There are two men inside the artist, the poet and the craftsman. One is born a poet. One becomes a craftsman.” - Emile Zola


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 5:01 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
Posts: 4143
First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Ed Haney wrote:
Just wondering how many different ways are out there for putting the radius on head and tail blocks where they glue to the curved rims?

I know some use:
- large disk sander
- a plane
- belt sander
- sine table with a sander

What is your detailed approach for accuracy and ease on this step?

Thank you!

Because my moulds are over full height at neck and tail (detachable add-ons) I just use a block plane to rough them in, then sand them to final shape with self adhesive abrasives stuck n the mould.

_________________
“There are two men inside the artist, the poet and the craftsman. One is born a poet. One becomes a craftsman.” - Emile Zola



These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: Ed Haney (Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:48 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 5:17 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:47 pm
Posts: 1646
First name: Jay
Last Name: De Rocher
City: Bothell
State: Washington
I draw the radius on the top and bottom ends of the blocks using a radius template made off the body plan and then sand to the lines free hand on the belt sander. My belt sander is set up vertically and I set the table perpendicular to the belt. I rest the block on the table for the sanding and flip the block end for end a couple times during sanding to make sure I don't go past the lines. It's very fast and accurate and doesn't require a jig.

Example of a head block. (I rout out the head block mortise before sanding the radius.)

Attachment:
Headblock.jpg


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge - Charles Darwin



These users thanked the author J De Rocher for the post: Ed Haney (Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:48 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 7:15 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 4419
Location: Virginia
I use a hand plane followed by my fretboard radius blocks. In some cases it's perfect in others it's close enough to finish on a sanding bard.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 4:55 am 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 10510
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
Last Name: Breakstone
City: Tecumseh and Ann Arbor
State: Michigan
Country: United States
Status: Professional
Colin North wrote:
Hesh wrote:
A cool way that I learned back in the day was to make a positive of the radius I want and then slather on Bondo to a block of wood, cover with waxed paper and press it onto the radiused form and leave until the bondo dries. I still have my blocks I made this way and they have yet to rust. :)

Hesh, that sounds like making a radius block for sanding a fretboard radius - ?
Think OP is asking about fitting neck and tail blocks to sides.


You can make radius blocks for anything this way, with Bondo. I would do what J describes and rough in with a plane but then I went to my blocks to refine the shape.

Mine had double duty as clamping cauls and radiused sanding blocks.

_________________
Ann Arbor Guitars
World-Class Repair and Restoration
http://www.annarborguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 6:53 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2017 8:43 am
Posts: 1115
I use my mold.
I cut plane the edges of the block close... then I stick tape to the inside of the mold and use that to finish the shape


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 8:15 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:45 pm
Posts: 1012
First name: Michael
Last Name: Colbert
City: Anacortes
State: WA
Focus: Build
I do pretty much exactly what Jay does. I have cnc cut acrylic templates for all of my guitar models so it’s easy to accurately mark the radius on the block and head to the 6”x 48” sander and sand to the line. I do the same for the plywood tail block.

My thinking is that I’m gonna be within .002-.005” of perfect doing it by eye. Any slight adjustment will be handled during final fairing of the sides before cutting the binding ledges.

Best, M


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.



These users thanked the author Michaeldc for the post: Ed Haney (Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:47 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:16 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
Posts: 5798
Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
I also use my acrylic templates to mark the blocks then just sand on a 12" disc sander. Quick and easy.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"



These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Ed Haney (Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:47 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: bobgramann and 15 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com