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Yes, a sharp chisel is your pal in this. Setting it so that your fret plane kisses the top of your 3/8 bridge should be fine. Start by cutting about a half inch behind the FB, then an inch, then 1.5" etc, rather than trying to get the whole cut in one go. Hope that makes sense. Then floss as needed to clean up the joint. Try to be very careful about removing the same amount of wood off each side so your centreline stays good.

It is much easier to bring a neck back. For that reason, I always set my necks about 1mm forward at rough fit. Then, right before I glue the neck on, I floss it to the exact angle, both perfecting the joint and the angle at the same time.

Mind you, I use a bolt on neck. If you're using a dovetail and have to change the anlke, then you have to mess around with shims to get it right as well...

Also, you don't need to remove much material to get the angle change you want, so go slow.

There is a way to calculate exactly how much to remove to get the change you want, but that knowledge is beyond me.

I imagine Woodie might be able to help in that regard...

Also, you don't need to remove much material to get the angle change you want, so go slow.

There is a way to calculate exactly how much to remove to get the change you want, but that knowledge is beyond me.

I imagine Woodie might be able to help in that regard...

I think I had found something at StewMac quite a while ago to help determine how much to remove. Check out Dan's video, I didn't look at it all but I think he deals with the same issue you have
https://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_Secrets/Fixing_the_angle_of_an_acoustic_neck_joint.html

It won't be even 1/32nd of an inch and you will need to taper that to zero at the heel cap. Is it a butt joint or M&T? If it's a butt and you have bolt holes in the face of the heel then be very careful using a chisel as you my tear out wood around the holes. Probably no big deal since hopefully no one will ever see it again but still.

FWIW, I don't mark it at all. Just a few careful cuts, check, repeat...

And now a word about safety: no matter what, DO NOT try to hold the heel steady with your hand while trimming with a chisel. Always DO use a jig to secure the work piece.

That is all.

And now a word about safety: no matter what, DO NOT try to hold the heel steady with your hand while trimming with a chisel. Always DO use a jig to secure the work piece.

That is all.

Here's the formula as stated in Bill Cory's book on building martin kits.
Lay a straightedge on the frets.
"A" is the gap between the straightedge and the bridge crown(above or below).
"B" is the height of the neck heel, base to bottom of fretboard.
"C" is the length from the neck heel to the center of saddle slot.
(A+B) / C = X.
X is the amount to remove from the top or bottom of the neck heel tapering to "0" at the other end. Got it?

I've run a piece of tape from the objective to the opposite point to sorta define the line.

here is a tip that doesn't require math
since you have to remove wood from the upper part take a 1/32 shim place at the heel and just snug your bolt , measure , if you need more ad another shim. Once the neck is in position scribe a mark on both sides of the neck BINGO

Don’t even think about showing that pic again!

Hope it all healed up good.

B