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That makes perfect sense Brad, cheers!
Might be fun getting the linings lined up on the body taper, have to read the tute.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

That laminating jig is quite a work of art! Have you laminated any sides with it yet? Any problems getting even pressure over the entire side?

When I started using double sides I envisioned a jig like that but didn’t have the chops to get a perfect fit when taking the slightly varying thickness of the sides into consideration.

How did you get such an accurate mating?

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

The tutorial will show it, but the approach is brilliant. You take a strip of oversized lining, mark the taper of the body and sand to the line. Then run the same strip through the bandsaw with your sanded face against the fence. Now you have a lining that is uniform height and matches the taper perfectly.

The tute explains it better I think.


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I built a similar one for dred shape. It worked out pretty well. As you imagined, tiny variances in the sides can be a problem. The advantage I have is that I’m also making the lining sides at the same time so if I see things running a bit thick or thin, I can leave the last layer of the lining side a little thicker or thinner to compensate. I also took two pieces of the HDPE that you see in the pic down to 0.010 and 0.015. Although I haven’t had a need to use it yet, I also have a strip of the super thin cork that compresses down to 0.010 or so. I imagine the cork would get destroyed in the process, but it’s cheap and readily available.

I would guess someone with a CNC could get it all more perfect but it still would take some finagling I think because of the sides variance.

It is definitely easier than trying to clamp strips on, it probably more finicky than an air bag.

Here is the one for dreds:



Brad




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What is the benefit to laminated sides?

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Nothing too exciting. Working on my new bench/go-bar deck using cheap bargain bin wood from HD. The twist on 2 rails turned out to be more than I can live with. After a couple of failed attempts at moving ahead anyway, I broke out the big guns. Now the twist is gone.

This one I have to use just because I spent so much money on it. Waste of money if you ask me. Looks pretty though.




This Record #6 came from a yardsale this summer for $10 and it did most of the work in about 5 minutes.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

That laminating jig is cool. Like Terrence said I don't think I could ever get something like that perfect. Perhaps if it were lined with cork or something that could smoosh out any of the discrepancies it would even out pressure? Other thoughts are some sort of 'kerfed' set up... I've been wanting to build a laminating jig for a while. You mention a tutorial? Where is that?

Sorry, John. I was talking about the tutorial that Burton did on making solid lining. It's at the link below. The jig I made here is more for avoiding the clamping hell that he shows in the pics in the tutorial.

viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=21455

So far I've had good luck with the jig. As long as I don't throw my back out moving it around.

Edited to add: I also made the jig that Burton describes for cutting the slot for the struts. It was already on my agenda to make something similar for notching x-braces so it was a good excuse. I made pretty much the same jig he shows there but I added another angled fence so that the two x-braces can ride over the 1/4" bit together at the right angle. I then thin them in the drum sander until they fit snugly. I first saw that tip from Lance in the archives.

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So this is just for bending bindings?

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

No bending involved, all the bending happens on the heated bender (or for some of you that's called a heated pipe ). This is for laminating sides together and in my case also laminating a "lining side" to cut solid linings from. Take a look at Burton's tutorial.

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I saw the tutorial but it doesn't answer my question, why? What's the benefit of a double side?

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

I don't have as much experience with double sides as some of the others here. I use this jig primarily for making laminated solid linings. For double sides, there are practical reasons for the builder like the fact they really hold their shape so working with them can be easier, reasons for the owner like resistance to splitting and abuse, and tonal reasons which deserves its own thread.

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When I laminate the sides and glue in the blocks ,we have a very rigid form that for me requires no mold , and then I can proceed to the next steps. Gluing up the top and back

Interesting. Is the inner layer rotated 90 to the outer?

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

There are different reasons and different ways to laminate sides (and backs). One reason given for it is to make a side that will not absorb or transfer energy from the top. Some use a "show" veneer on the outside and a less expensive veneer on the inside. Usually the grain of both pieces is oriented the same as it would be for a non laminated side. Some folks do laminate like plywood - crossing an odd number of plies. This is more commonly done by factories.
I laminate both backs and sides on some instruments for economic reasons, and because with my methods I think they are tonally about the same as solid wood. Several years ago I bought sequence matched "offcuts" and "overages" from a company that made panels. If the veneer leaf was 12 ft long and the panel was 8 ft. ,they would have 4 ft long offcuts. If they needed 100 pieces of veneer and the flitch had 5 bundles they might have 20-25 leaves left over. They sold some very nice veneer for scrap prices.
My method is to reglue the veneer back together in the same order it came off the log. I mold the sides as others are doing now, but also glue up flat panels to make backs. I then work with them the same as I do solid wood.

Laminating is also a good thing to do when you have stump wood or spalted wood that would otherwise be too crack prone but looks beautiful.

I have been doing double sides for quite a while now, both same species and different species for inner and outer.

I have been impressed with the tonal effect, especially with Mahogany. Maple outer and Rosewood inner is also a good combo. They have been well received.
My outer is usually around .050 and the inner maybe .045. You can bend them together.

I have been less impressed with double side Rosewood guitars.

Unibond 800 is a good glue. It dries like glass.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Finished one for my wife.
The two inlays took me 12 hours to complete, but it was enjoyable work.
I installed a blend pot between the pickups. Works great.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Gaudy Red Tele going for the Live edge binding look... If anyone wants to know the particulars, Chambered Northern Ash body, Quilted Maple drop top, body weight just under 4 lbs

Resurrecting this.

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

A classical in American Walnut. I do like a cutaway. It's always a nice feeling when you are all ready to glue the top on and remember to stick your label in! Dave

Baking this week, first batch tonight.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Discovering how nice a spokeshave is for the initial roughing out of a neck. I'm using an old Goodell Pratt #36 spokeshave I got for a few bucks last week at the Seattle Luthiers Group auction . It's the first spokeshave I've owned. It's a simple design but it works really well. Up to now, I've been using chisels and/or rasps (depending on what the wood allows) for this stage of neck shaping. The spokeshave is fast and very controllable. I like it.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Yup, they definitely have there uses for neck shaping.
My favorite -

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Nice... I’ve been making do with the old lee valley contour planes...

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.a ... 1182,46334

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com