Official Luthiers Forum!

I have had limited success with drop filling "holes" or voids in the finish around the rosette or otherwise using the same finish material, in this case EM6000. I find that it shrinks back and I have to do it over and over. So, I'm wondering if I could try using CA for drop filling. Based on what I've read here on the OLF, CA should work well for this...(if I've understood this correctly).

If I could expect that CA would blend in to my top coat and be "invisible" I would up for trying it... My strategy would be to apply medium CA and then scrape it even to the top coat with a razor blade. Then do an overall light sanding with 400 grit as I usually do between sessions, before following with additional top coats.

Does this sound reasonable? Should I use medium or thin? Any recommendations or suggestions are welcome.

Here are a couple I'm working on...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

That’s exactly what I’ve been doing. I prefer the thin followed by accelerator. A pipette is kind of a must unless you love extra sanding. I also use a rubber block behind the 400 to make sure the fill ends up nice and flat.

Best, M

I do this as well, totally no issue around sound holes and the like. On my last few guitars, I took extraordinary care to do the drop fills before my final day of spraying. I level EM6000 the day after I spray my first sets of coats. The leveling tends to highlight the voids. I drop fill and level with CA as described. Then there is no issue as CA is covered with the final coats.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

I do it for repairs, but I do not recommend it for new finishes. It doesn't necessarily burn in. And sometimes it can have a different optical effect. Also, there is the possibility of fuming surrounding finish or air inclusions.

I would avoid using accelerator. It can boil thicker fills and make the CA look white.

Barry,
You said, “I do it for repairs, but I do not recommend it for new finishes. It doesn't necessarily burn in. And sometimes it can have a different optical effect. Also, there is the possibility of fuming surrounding finish or air inclusions.”

This is the kind of thing I was concerned about, but it appears that John and Michael have used CA successfully during initial finishing. I would agree that I would be hesitant to use accelerator...

So, I'm left in a quandary. Does anyone else have any experience with using CA for drop filling during initial finishing?

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I find that the ca won’t go exothermic if you only mist the surface with the accelerator. If you hit it hard with the accelerator it will definitely cause a problem. I’ve never tried this with anything other than EM6000

you need to check out Glu Boost
CA will show in a few months

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

+1 Glu Boost fill n finish and accelerator. Its made for this kind of work and the accelerator won't cause blushing or other problems.

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It will probably be alright.

Yep

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Do I even need to use Glu Boost? Can't I just give the CA time? It's not like I'm in a hurry...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Okay, I got it. This must be the stuff...

https://www.amazon.com/Fill-Finish-Pore ... B01I7AIRMM

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I hadn’t noticed the ca showing over time. I did just order the Gluboost lineup. About time I gave it a try.

I have not seen CA show up in time either but it might depend on the finish. If you don't polish and sand it back dead level then it will create a lense effect. I don't use accelerator either, I've had bad experience with it.

No, you don't have to use accelerator. I usually do only because I don't want to wait

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I do this for a living and to my eye I can see CA pretty easy on Nitro finish
on poly I can see it in good light

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I'll take a closer look.

Steve, I use glue boost and have some if you'd like to try it out. I need to order some more accelerator.

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"I've been had again"
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC

Yes, and not so favorable. First guitar, first Nitro finish. I just used Gluboost after the final coat had dried for drop fill, and to repair a crack that appeared due to low humidity. After leveling and polishing, somewhere in the process, the GLUBOOST shrank back along the 12" long crack, leaving a low trough, quite visible and unacceptable. I've drop filled again, over the CA with many coats of lacquer. Letting it dry for 7 days before I go back and level. Other places where I drop filled with Gluboost sank/ shrank back, requiring additional work. Had a little accidental dribble onto the surface, it shrank back too. Might be dry time, I only let the CA dry overnight, but I'm not a fan

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

I have had bad experiences filling with super glue under water based lacquers, sometimes it has left me with white spots. I fill with finish instead and take my time.

I have found that using CA to drop fill is ok, but it's a different hardness than EM6000 and the Nirto Lacquer I've used in the past, thus it tended to look different after the final buffing.
If you have time, use the EM6000. It's the same finish, will melt in and will look the same after you've spent all that time leveling and buffing...

I've never used gluboost so I have nothing to say about it. But, a glue and your finish are different animals. As this is on a new guitar, don't cut corners. Give it the time required and it'll be as close to perfect as you can get it.

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

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Gluboost is probably better than most CA glues but it still doesn't disappear like a drop fill of the same finish will.