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This is the first time I have used Engleman spruce. I swear...all I have to do is glance at it and it dents or scratches. I'm worried about masking for the bridge when I get ready to finish the top. No matter what I do to tape, or how I peel it up, it pulls fibers out of the wood. My method of masking is to put tape over an area larger than the bridge, cut around the bridge, and peel away the excess.

Questions: 1) Is there something I can use for masking that will be less likely to pull fibers on removal? Or 2) Should I just finish completely and then scrape all the finish off the bridge area. I really do prefer masking first, if possible. Thanks, Wendy

Stew Mac sells a low-tack protective tape for taping over finishes. Some reviews said it's very low-tack, "wouldn't take fuzz off a peach." Not sure how it would do on bare wood but here's the link: https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_S ... _Tape.html

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Julie Moriarty
http://JulimorCreations.com

I cut my mask before sticking to the top so any fibers that get pulled up are under the bridge.

My bridge is registered to the top with 2 small hole drilled through the saddle slot that small brads drop through as index pins.

I put the bridge over a sheet of frisket film with a piece of cardbord beneath. I punch the brads through the saddle slot holes, frisket film & into the cardboard. Now the film is registered to the bridge. I then cut the film, slightly undersized to the bridge.

The film is registered to the top using the index holes and a piece of low tack masking tape as a hinge (search vinyl application hinge method).

When peeling off the mask, bend it over on itself so you're pulling along the surface - don't pull up! This works pretty well for me buy YMMV.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

I use Friskit masking tape. Can be bought at any good drafting supply store. Tape is .002 thick low tack. Never had a problem but you will still need to score the perimeter before removing it. Make it easy to measure your finish thickness also. Don't buy the liquid, much messier.

+1 for the friskit film. You can pick it up an Amazon if you don't want drive anywhere.

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I've never used Engleman so what I say may not be applicable, but.... I either use frisket or the low tack green painters tape from the Home Depot. If I use frisket I do it like Kevin says. If tape then I do it as you mentioned.

The jury is still out on which way works the best for me.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Have you tried heating the tape with a hair drier before pulling it off the wood? You could do a test run on the inside surface of the top or on the off cuts to see if that prevents tearing out fibers.

You may already be doing this, but it helps to pull the tape off across the grain rather than with the grain.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Another option is to route finish off with dremil mounted in a router base.

All great information and suggestions! I think I will try the friskit and Kevin's method for a change. I will also try the hairdryer next time I have to remove tape. Good idea. Thanks for all the answers!

My process is the same as Kevin's. I also use a hairdryer, as Jay describes. Since adopting these practices I have not had any problems with pulling up wood fibers.

Go slow. Be patient. Take your time.

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George :-)

Cut it off with the dremel here as well....

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

We do a rout-off, but the concern with either that approach or a 'mask and score' is that any wood fibers nicked in the process provide a place for stress to concentrate and cause a joint failure. A rout-off largely avoids the issue at the cost of removing 0.001"-0.002" of finish-saturated wood.

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To remove some of the tackyness of masking tape I will stick it to my clothing where it picks up lint and dust. I try not to leave it on the wood too long And prior to removal I do carefully score score the finish.Being careful to remove tape across the grain rather than along the grain also seems to help.

Wendy, I'm going to be contrary to everyone here. I would suggest to put the bridge on, give the top a light wash coat and then play the guitar to determine if any adjustments need to made, make the needed adjustments, then finish. It's not too difficult really.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com