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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 3:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 10:11 am
Posts: 2142
Terence Kennedy wrote:
Brad Goodman wrote:
Terence Kennedy wrote:
Do you terrace your plates first Brad or just go at it with the Lancelot.

Which specific Lancelot model do you use? I am ready to give one a try.

Thanks,

Terry

Yes, Terence, I forgot that part....

I do terrace the outside of the plate with my pin router and a large bit first. It also set the edge thickness (3/16") with this machine.

The Lancelot I use is the one for the 4" grinder I have the coarse and fine one-I can't remember which one I use-I don't think it matters.

Obviously be extremely cautious with this tool. I use the side handle on the grinder to give the best grip possible...


Thanks
I terrace with a pin router too but follow with the 36G flap sander. Pretty slow on maple. Thanks for the info Brad! Oh yeah, any secrets for avoiding the huge pin router mess? I have been less than successful.


No Secrets -Its a mess! Same as the lancelot-I try to do it outside if I can.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 4:43 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3289
Location: Alexandria MN
Me too :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 8:08 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2014 3:57 pm
Posts: 85
First name: Michael
Last Name: Lee
City: Albany Creek
State: QLD
Zip/Postal Code: 4035
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I am building one from the Benedetto book, luckily I have some friends to guide me. I bought an extra plan from Stewmac, which had extra dimensions that the book does not. I made all the jigs, a jig for clamping the sides in, a top and bottom. I shaped drilling holes then used a safety plane and small curved bottom plane, but in discussions with a maker he said he uses an angle grinder with Arbor-tech turbo plane. I then drilled the inside holes, bought the Turbo plane! I wish I did that before shaping the top! It took about 30 minutes to roughly shape the inside to 8mm, so I have about 2 mm to go. I have a set of profiles copied from the plan and book, and compared mine with a friend who has built 3. Some minor shaping in the waist to go.
Bending the quilted maple ribs is going to be a challenge, all who have done this say it's very tricky and will get some cracks.
I have also built a 335 copy but 20 mm thicker. I'll post a few pics when I can get some light on it.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 9:47 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 10:11 am
Posts: 2142
Mike2E wrote:
I am building one from the Benedetto book, luckily I have some friends to guide me. I bought an extra plan from Stewmac, which had extra dimensions that the book does not. I made all the jigs, a jig for clamping the sides in, a top and bottom. I shaped drilling holes then used a safety plane and small curved bottom plane, but in discussions with a maker he said he uses an angle grinder with Arbor-tech turbo plane. I then drilled the inside holes, bought the Turbo plane! I wish I did that before shaping the top! It took about 30 minutes to roughly shape the inside to 8mm, so I have about 2 mm to go. I have a set of profiles copied from the plan and book, and compared mine with a friend who has built 3. Some minor shaping in the waist to go.
Bending the quilted maple ribs is going to be a challenge, all who have done this say it's very tricky and will get some cracks.
I have also built a 335 copy but 20 mm thicker. I'll post a few pics when I can get some light on it.


I have always had more trouble bending curly maple than quilted maple.

No matter what you bend (with a few exceptions), bending the sharp cut-a-way takes the patience of a plaster saint......

Cyanoacralate (thin) is your friend when it comes to fixing the inevitable cracks.



These users thanked the author Brad Goodman for the post: Mike2E (Sat Jun 02, 2018 1:37 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 10:45 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3289
Location: Alexandria MN
The biggest help for me in bending the tight cutaway was going to double sides with a lower grade Maple on the inside. You can bend them together but each side is only about .050 or less so there is a lot less risk of cracks. I still get a little kink sometimes but have been able to sand it out and it is usually near the edges.

Super soft II first always.

My solid bending form is also the laminating form.

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