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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 7:46 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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With that, you thickness coco, African Blackwood, you name it. It NEVER clogs. It’s is loud though. Lol



These users thanked the author Mike OMelia for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Jan 07, 2018 7:53 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 7:54 pm 
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Mike OMelia wrote:
With that, you thickness coco, African Blackwood, you name it. It NEVER clogs. It’s is loud though. Lol


You should try the Abranet. I’ve used it on a bunch of coco and EIR lately. No clogging as well and the surface is nice and smooth.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 7:56 pm 
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My brain hurts...



These users thanked the author Haans for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:00 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:06 pm 
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bcombs510 wrote:
I’m surprised more folks don’t experiment with using Abranet on the drum sander. I have a 16-32 from Jet. The challenge is that the Abranet comes in weird sizes (2 3/4” and 4 1/2”) which doesn’t work well on the 16” wide drum.

Image

So what I do is trim the whole roll down to 2 1/2” when I’m ready to retire a bandsaw blade. :) Take it nice and slow and trim the 2 3/4” down to 2 1/2”. Then I can use the same taper and method for cutting the paper that is described in the manual. The only difference is my paper is 2 1/2” instead of 3”.

Image

The 120 cuts like 80 but leaves a surface like 220.

I got this tip from Mark Roberts in a video shop tour he did for a podcast.

All the same great things about Abranet but on a drum sander! Doesn’t clog, doesn’t overheat and lasts forever.

Might be worth considering.

Brad


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Can you just lay it out and cut it with a utility knife?



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post: bcombs510 (Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:08 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:10 pm 
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.....

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Last edited by bcombs510 on Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:13 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Haans wrote:
My brain hurts...


Sorry. laughing6-hehe


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:14 pm 
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bcombs510 wrote:
I’m surprised more folks don’t experiment with using Abranet on the drum sander. I have a 16-32 from Jet. The challenge is that the Abranet comes in weird sizes (2 3/4” and 4 1/2”) which doesn’t work well on the 16” wide drum.

Image

So what I do is trim the whole roll down to 2 1/2” when I’m ready to retire a bandsaw blade. :) Take it nice and slow and trim the 2 3/4” down to 2 1/2”. Then I can use the same taper and method for cutting the paper that is described in the manual. The only difference is my paper is 2 1/2” instead of 3”.

Image

The 120 cuts like 80 but leaves a surface like 220.

I got this tip from Mark Roberts in a video shop tour he did for a podcast.

All the same great things about Abranet but on a drum sander! Doesn’t clog, doesn’t overheat and lasts forever.

Might be worth considering.

Brad


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Wow. You make that sound pretty hard to ignore. Next time I need abrasives I'll give it a try. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:19 pm 
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Koa
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jfmckenna wrote:
bcombs510 wrote:
I’m surprised more folks don’t experiment with using Abranet on the drum sander. I have a 16-32 from Jet. The challenge is that the Abranet comes in weird sizes (2 3/4” and 4 1/2”) which doesn’t work well on the 16” wide drum.

Image

So what I do is trim the whole roll down to 2 1/2” when I’m ready to retire a bandsaw blade. :) Take it nice and slow and trim the 2 3/4” down to 2 1/2”. Then I can use the same taper and method for cutting the paper that is described in the manual. The only difference is my paper is 2 1/2” instead of 3”.

Image

The 120 cuts like 80 but leaves a surface like 220.

I got this tip from Mark Roberts in a video shop tour he did for a podcast.

All the same great things about Abranet but on a drum sander! Doesn’t clog, doesn’t overheat and lasts forever.

Might be worth considering.

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you just lay it out and cut it with a utility knife?


I tried to reply, Tapatalk ate it. :)

I’m sure you could, no problem. I’m just super lazy.

I should point out that the only need to cut it is because the Jet sanders have the attachment points on opposing sides of the drum and I couldn’t get the math to work out at 2 3/4”. At 2 1/2” I just taper just like 3”.

If your sander attachment points are on the same side of the drum (opposite end of course) then you should be able to just taper like normal with the 2 3/4”.





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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:39 pm 
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Abranet is pretty expensive. Whats the life like? And does it clog on oily woods?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:54 pm 
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Mike OMelia wrote:
Abranet is pretty expensive. Whats the life like? And does it clog on oily woods?


Lifespan has been really good so far. I can only say I’ve had the same paper on there for the last 5 B&S sets which include two coco. No issues with oils. Mark Roberts builds a lot with coco too I believe. He talks about it here:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?t=3149s&v=EDd8aWRnjKc

He talks about Abranet around 11 minutes in.

I think it can generally stay cooler which helps a lot on my sander when doing sides because I can’t angle the side very much to keep from overheating in a specific spot.




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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:19 pm 
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I was so excited to get a drum sander until I actually got one - very slow compared to a planer, the joy of cleaning and changing abrasive, & deep grooves from 80 or 100 grit (meaning more time to sand or scrape out compared to the ripples from a planer) but no tear out compared to a planer. I guess there is no free lunch.

I use Abranet on my ROS & love it compared to conventional sandpaper. I'm going to look at using it on the drum, especially with oily woods.

One thing I've learned on the drum is to skew the grain to the feed direction as much as possible when thicknessing.

Just my $0.02

Kevin Looker

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:33 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Kevin, I hear you. I’ve never owned a planer until this weekend. My favorite woods, coco, African Blackwood, etc, destroyed my drum paper. I posted here endlessly about it. Then, someone suggested Klingspor 36 blue. Granted, scratches can be a problem if you don’t get the feed angle thing or pressure thing. But, get beyond that, it is a very cost effective way to thickness once you learn it. I’m never going to pass thin, figured, expensive wood through a planer. Never. I have never destroyed a set. But I did have to learn how to use that 36 grit paper. Love it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:03 pm 
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I've been too apprehensive to attempt planing very thin wood in my planer. Maybe I'd be more confident with a more modern machine (helical head?) but in the machine I have, I haven't tried anything below 3/16". I've been hoping to go the last step with the drum sander. Sounds like I have a learning curve to climb.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:07 pm 
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Is this the right Abranet product?

https://smile.amazon.com/Mirka-9A-570-1 ... t+roll+120

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:28 pm 
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bionta wrote:


Correct. What drum sander do you have?

I don’t have a lot of experience with different drum sanders and how they provide attachment for the paper, but I gather they are all fairly similar since you can buy pre-cut paper that works for several different males and models. I only have experience with mine which is a Jet 16-32.

What would be worthwhile is to take a roll of your brown paper (which you should have for bending sides anyway ;)) and cut a long strip of it at 2 3/4” and experiment with trying different cuts to see what works. If I followed the manual for my 16-32 the 2 3/4” didn’t work for me. After some math and experimentation I landed on either a) putting a 1/4” gap between each pass around the drum, which made it effectively like the 3” roll or b) cut the roll down to 2 1/2” and follow the rest of the steps in the manual just like it was a 3”.

I can’t be sure because I don’t have anything to compare it to, but if your sander is like mine you may need to trim the Abranet or work out a way that it will work for you. But the results are really good I’ve found. I still take light passes just like paper but I find the motor doesn’t bog down like it could sometimes with regular paper.

There might be some math to save the day but my understanding is the taper is basically matching the diameter of the drum. So you can’t mess with that too much, so it comes down to the width of the Abranet.

FWIW, they also sell it in 4 1/2”. You could cut it to 3” just like normal paper and still have a 1 1/2” strip that could be actually useful. The 1/4” that I’m cutting off the 2 3/4” is really just trash at that point.

Anyway, hope some of that helps!

Brad




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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:34 pm 
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bionta wrote:
Sounds like most of you guys use the drum for leveling then? Also fine tuning the dimension. Not so much for heavy stock removal and the finish sanding happens later (by hand or ROS).

Do you see much burning with 120 on woods like cherry or maple?

I just finished a maple guitar and experienced no burning with 120.... I fed it through at a decent pace though...
this is with a jet 10-20 if that makes a difference at all


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:37 pm 
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I have a Byrd helical head on my planer. I've had good luck using double stick tape & a carrier board, except for figured Koa.

I'm not getting rid of my sander. I think it's a necessary evil. Hesh brought up a good point with dust extraction. I do think if I had better extraction, it would reduce dust build up, keep things cooler, and prolong abrasive life especially with oily woods.

Just to clarify, I'm not recommending anyone put a precious piece of wood through any planer, with any type of head. I have a pretty good feel for what my machine can & can't do, but I learned a lesson with figured Koa, luckily just a random piece, not part of a back & side set.

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These users thanked the author klooker for the post (total 2): bionta (Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:02 am) • bcombs510 (Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:39 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:41 pm 
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I put a piece of Zebra wood on a sled through my Dewalt planer when I was first starting to get into building. It was like a dozen angry porcupines were in there. Some of the shards literally stuck in the wall.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:06 pm 
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SnowManSnow wrote:
Personally I take thin passes and use 120. In my limited experience the course 80 grit left pretty deep sanding marks that I had to then remove. So, the 120 seems like a good compromise and still has the grit to handle things


I do the same, buddy. For the same reason.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:35 am 
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bcombs510 wrote:
I put a piece of Zebra wood on a sled through my Dewalt planer when I was first starting to get into building. It was like a dozen angry porcupines were in there. Some of the shards literally stuck in the wall.


I am still chuckling. laughing6-hehe



These users thanked the author Mike OMelia for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Jan 08, 2018 2:22 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 3:15 am 
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bcombs510 wrote:
The 120 cuts like 80 but leaves a surface like 220.

Doesn’t clog, doesn’t overheat and lasts forever.


Somebody pinch me!



These users thanked the author Pmaj7 for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Jan 08, 2018 4:57 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 8:07 am 
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pat macaluso wrote:
bcombs510 wrote:
The 120 cuts like 80 but leaves a surface like 220.

Doesn’t clog, doesn’t overheat and lasts forever.


Somebody pinch me!


I should work for Mirka’s marketing department. ;)

I was chatting with Colin in PM and it was mentioned that Abranet might stretch and loosen over time. I haven’t seen this personally, but I also have been swapping out the Abranet for lower grit paper every so often based on the work that I’m doing. Re-wrapping the Abranet I may be keeping it from getting too loose? I have some 60 and 80 grit pre-cut paper rolls that I use for non instrument stuff.

So if you experiment with Abranet watch out for it loosening over time. Given it’s construction I can see how it might stretch over time.

Hope that helps!
Brad


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These users thanked the author bcombs510 for the post (total 2): Pmaj7 (Mon Jan 08, 2018 1:19 pm) • bionta (Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:13 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:51 am 
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bcombs510 wrote:
bionta wrote:


Correct. What drum sander do you have?

I don’t have a lot of experience with different drum sanders and how they provide attachment for the paper, but I gather they are all fairly similar since you can buy pre-cut paper that works for several different males and models. I only have experience with mine which is a Jet 16-32.

What would be worthwhile is to take a roll of your brown paper (which you should have for bending sides anyway ;)) and cut a long strip of it at 2 3/4” and experiment with trying different cuts to see what works. If I followed the manual for my 16-32 the 2 3/4” didn’t work for me. After some math and experimentation I landed on either a) putting a 1/4” gap between each pass around the drum, which made it effectively like the 3” roll or b) cut the roll down to 2 1/2” and follow the rest of the steps in the manual just like it was a 3”.

I can’t be sure because I don’t have anything to compare it to, but if your sander is like mine you may need to trim the Abranet or work out a way that it will work for you. But the results are really good I’ve found. I still take light passes just like paper but I find the motor doesn’t bog down like it could sometimes with regular paper.

There might be some math to save the day but my understanding is the taper is basically matching the diameter of the drum. So you can’t mess with that too much, so it comes down to the width of the Abranet.

FWIW, they also sell it in 4 1/2”. You could cut it to 3” just like normal paper and still have a 1 1/2” strip that could be actually useful. The 1/4” that I’m cutting off the 2 3/4” is really just trash at that point.

Anyway, hope some of that helps!

Brad

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My sander is a Performax 22-44. The drum is 22" long x 16" circumference. Back of the envelope calculation says the strips at 2-3/4" wide need to be ~140" long. The Abranet roll is 10 yards long, yielding 2 full wraps with about 80" left over. I don't know what use I could get out of that much narrow abrasive. Kind of inefficient.

I think at 4-1/2" wide the strips would need to be 90" long. Amazon also has a roll that's 4-1/2" x 900". Coincidentally exactly 10 wraps. Much better, but also a much bigger investment - $118 for the roll. I think I'll use up my sandpaper first.

I don't understand why you had to cut down the 2-3/4" roll. Don't you just have to make the diagonal cut at the end long enough to go once all the way around the drum? I would have thought you could just lay the end of an old 3" strip on top of the new 2-3/4" strip with the outboard edges aligned and cut to match. You'd have to wrap the new strip around the drum to get the right length and then just do the same on the other end. But I haven't tried it. Maybe I'm missing something here.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:54 am 
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bcombs510 wrote:
pat macaluso wrote:
bcombs510 wrote:
The 120 cuts like 80 but leaves a surface like 220.

Doesn’t clog, doesn’t overheat and lasts forever.


Somebody pinch me!


I should work for Mirka’s marketing department. ;)



My brother used to be their VP of marketing for the eastern US. Maybe he could get you a gig. :lol: :shock:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:04 am 
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SnowManSnow wrote:
bionta wrote:
Sounds like most of you guys use the drum for leveling then? Also fine tuning the dimension. Not so much for heavy stock removal and the finish sanding happens later (by hand or ROS).

Do you see much burning with 120 on woods like cherry or maple?

I just finished a maple guitar and experienced no burning with 120.... I fed it through at a decent pace though...
this is with a jet 10-20 if that makes a difference at all


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That's really good to know. Thanks.

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