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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 12:21 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2015 7:39 am
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Now on my third guitar build and lacking a workshop full of dedicated tools (don’t even have a bandsaw) I’ve been getting creative with tools and along the way have come across some surprisingly good solutions.

The Cumpiano book calls for a neck tenon with the shoulders of the heel block mitred in 5°. This is most likely a skill issue but I’ve failed to get good results fine tuning the end grain of the faces with a sanding block or running strips between the body and heel to set the neck straight and pitched correctly.

However, I’ve found that (obviously prior to cutting the neck outline) setting up my Makita sliding mitre saw carefully I am able to use the depth stop and blade tilt to cut the 5° shoulder on the heel, while also angling the mitre of the cut on the other axis to correct the pitch of the neck. The results were truly excellent.

Last night I also realised I wasn’t able to get a tight enough radius on my maple binding for the headstock using my bending iron, so clamped a soldering iron to the bench and used that with perfect results.

So, I wanted to find out what every day tools you all use creatively while plying your trade!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 3:43 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I get a lot of use out of a hammer ;)

A chop saw is indeed a good tool for getting angles right. Other then everyday tools I also use things like hair dryers, nail files, combs, toothbrushes and rubber bands.



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post (total 2): Mark Fogleman (Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:02 pm) • Bosco Birdswood (Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:23 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:17 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Don't forget the classic, mini-crocpot for HHG.

I use wooden clothes pins with rubber bands for clamping linings, fiberglass driveway markers for go-bars and aluminum yardsticks to make fret slot templates. I'm sure there are may others I'm not thinking of. This is going to be a great thread. I'm sure everyone will pick up a new idea or two.

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Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.



These users thanked the author Bryan Bear for the post: Bosco Birdswood (Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:23 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:26 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Bryan Bear wrote:
This is going to be a great thread. I'm sure everyone will pick up a new idea or two.


I hope so! How do you make the cuts accurately on the yard stick for the frets? As an amateur builder needing to spend $50+ per scale length for the StewMac ones gets pricey.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:06 pm 
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First name: colin
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Old table knifes for separating glued joints.


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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:36 pm 
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White plastic cutting boards can be made into rosette forms, if you like gluing them up separate from the guitar. Glue will not stick to the plastic, and the plastic machines really well.

Glue won't stick to clear packing tape, either, so covering your gluing cauls in clear packing tape is a good thing to do.



These users thanked the author doncaparker for the post: Alex Kleon (Mon Nov 06, 2017 6:27 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:40 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I cut the slots for the templates the same way I cut fretslots by hand. I use WFret to print out a template. Double check it for accuracy and tape it down to the aluminum. Then I push a knife point into the line and slide a square up to the knife blade. Remove the knife and use the square as the saw guide. Cut carefully.

The next time I make one, I'll probably use a table saw sled in combination with the WFret template and save myself some time.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.



These users thanked the author Bryan Bear for the post: Bosco Birdswood (Mon Nov 06, 2017 7:07 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 7:27 pm 
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Koa
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My favorite bridge separation knife is a spring stainless mini frosting knife from Sur La Table (think Williams- Sonoma with friendly sales staff)...edges buffed on the 8" metal buffing wheel and tweaked a bit. The problem is that I have to walk by all that $250-per-piece All-Clad stainless steel cookware and gorgeous $400 Damascus steel chef's knives to get to those $6 frosting knives.

No - I do not have a shopping problem.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 8:57 pm 
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Woodie G wrote:
The problem is that I have to walk by all that $250-per-piece All-Clad stainless steel cookware and gorgeous $400 Damascus steel chef's knives


Sounds like the Kramer's :)

My brother in-law has three that were made by Bob himself. I have three of the carbon steel Zwilling Kramer's from Sir La Table.

I also get a lot of use out of our frosting knife. :D


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 10:49 pm 
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Koa
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You are not helping, Mr. Orr ;)

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We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

-Mark Helprin, The Oceans and the Stars: A Sea Story, A War Story, A Love Story (A Novel)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:43 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I find cake frosting spatulas very very handy.

I have also absconded with the clothes iron... I seem to use that for a lot of guitar things.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:50 am 
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Cocobolo
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Bryan Bear wrote:
I cut the slots for the templates the same way I cut fretslots by hand. I use WFret to print out a template. Double check it for accuracy and tape it down to the aluminum. Then I push a knife point into the line and slide a square up to the knife blade. Remove the knife and use the square as the saw guide. Cut carefully.


I use this method but with Plexiglas or polycarbonate rather than aluminum. Then I can stick it to the fingerboard with double stick tape and do my fret sawing on the table saw. I have one for every scale I use, it makes fret slotting effortless. Takes longer to set up the table saw than to saw the frets.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 2:10 pm 
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Koa
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Shot Glasses.....to forget all those mistakes I make



These users thanked the author Quine for the post (total 3): Bosco Birdswood (Wed Nov 08, 2017 8:42 pm) • JSDenvir (Tue Nov 07, 2017 6:16 pm) • Michaeldc (Tue Nov 07, 2017 4:03 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:03 pm 
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I had a Red Devil 1170 plexiglass cutting knife in the shop:

https://rezcor.com/product/69044/Red-Devil-Plastic-Cutter-Tool

After thinning the blade a little on the belt sander, it makes a perfect fret slot cleaner for a bound (or any) board - pull the tool towards you

Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 8:43 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Quine wrote:
Shot Glasses.....to forget all those mistakes I make

I currently have a shot glass full of Cooba sawdust. Not sure it will work for your purpose though


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 8:52 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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use a lot of plastic templates with sticky tape for all the different uke ret fscales


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 9:25 pm 
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Koa
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I like to use empty italian ice cups for scooping finish out of the can.

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www.swiftcreekguitars.com


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:43 am 
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Mahogany
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I use my Incra 18 inch rule with .5mm holes at 1/64" intervals as a universal fret slotting template for any scale fretboard up to 18 inches in length.

1/64" isn't accurate enough for fret slot placement, but the fixture I use it with is adjustable left and right on its base, and uses digital calipers and a screw to move the fretboard in .001" increments. Because the ruler with the fretboard taped to it accounts for the major movement of the fretboard on the fixture, the fixture itself only slides 1/64" in total during the entire fret slotting procedure, and greatly reduces the inaccuracy of the calipers because that tends to be linear over distance.

Attachment:
photo 5.JPG



I can calculate the fretboard equal to or greater than the nearest 64th" for each fret and know which hole to index to, figure out the "offset" to the nearest thou, and then subtract the "offset" from the calculated fret position to know how far to 'adjust' the jig.

To make the calculation easier, I created a little fretboard calculator so I wouldn't have to do it each and every time. You can see that here if you like:
http://www.yafc.somee.com
In the display mode drop-down box you would select 64th Offsets, and in the Resolution drop-down select 1/1024. You can see the fret location values calculated to the nearest 1/64" and the corresponding offset next to it.

If I didn't have a radial arm saw, I would mount a router above the jig, or maybe use it in a drill press, and slot or drill a guide template instead of the fretboard itself, that could in turn be used in a table saw slotting jig.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 5:42 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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More for players, but aren't we all?

Image

Image

The late, great, very young Dave Ray...


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:53 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I use rubber bands from brocolli, etc, on my plywood workboard I have 3/8in dowels all around the perimeter , an the rubber bands to a great job of keeping the back or top in place while I shave braces , etc.


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