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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 11:18 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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jfmckenna wrote:
. . . the brace end would hit the side stopping it right at that point. In fact I insert a 1/32in little shim at each brace end so that when I rout out bindings I can remove it and then I will have some room for expansion.


Great idea.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 11:23 am 
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I do the same as Jay. Lay the top/back in the radius dish and set the mold/rims over the top, line up the center and end lines and mark the kerfing from the inside. The only one I also mark on the outside of the rims are the X braces, just to help set the angle right. I never cut through the rims for the pocket.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:06 pm 
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I use Fred’s exacto saw as well. Works great.

A great tip from Carlos Everett. Just do one side at a time. You can really lock in once you’ve done the first side and it makes the second side that much more precise.



These users thanked the author JSDenvir for the post (total 4): Colin North (Sat Nov 18, 2017 3:44 am) • pat macaluso (Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:01 pm) • SteveSmith (Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:03 pm) • Bryan Bear (Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:53 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 4:35 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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J De Rocher wrote:
I have a question based on the replies so far. Is everyone placing the top or back on top of the sides and then marking the brace locations on the outside of the sides? I ask because I place the braced top or back on the radius dish braces up and then position the sides (in the body mold) on top and then mark exactly where the braces intersect the inside surface of the lining. To my mind, that eliminates a couple potential sources of error in locating the pockets accurately and no clamps other than gravity are needed because the weight of the body mold holds everything in place fine.

Of course, this wouldn't work with the adjustable mold that Terence shows in the photo above.


I do it that way!
mc

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 6:53 pm 
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Mahogany
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Here's an idea using silly putty. Just put a piece about where the brace intersects the side and push the top or bottom down on it. I think I remember this from watching Captain Kangaroo, or not.


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These users thanked the author surveyor for the post: pat macaluso (Sat Nov 18, 2017 8:21 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 10:56 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Bryan Bear wrote:
I've been chiseling out the pockets like a sucker and not going through the whole rim. It is still fast enough that I donn't think it would be worth it for me to pull out the router and set it up. But, all this talk about routers makes me realize I should just cut my notches all the way through the rim. That will make it even faster to fit everything!

If you cut through the rims make sure your binding is y’all enough to cover it, or you’ll end up with a gap you don’t want. Had a friend that did this once.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 11:50 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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For cutting braces to length while fitting to the pockets you can safe tape a razor saw to prevent dinging up the top. Goes almost all the way and you can finish with an Xacto blade

Image

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These users thanked the author Terence Kennedy for the post: Bryan Bear (Mon Nov 27, 2017 10:37 am)
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