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 Post subject: Mahogany grain question
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 6:50 pm 
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Hi fellers,
I happened across a Honduran Mahogany plank, 4/4 5" wide x 7 ft long.
It has a lovely color. I want to use it for neck blanks.
First plank I found that is not flat-sawn.

I'm wondering if I can saw my blanks parallel to the grain lines?

I figured I could cut one, plane and square it and let it sit for a week to see it it moves.
Humidity should vary from 30% to 80% the next week.
I have no clue what to expect. I paid $26 for the plank, so I'm willing to experiment.
Any comments?
Thanks,
Dan


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 8:56 pm 
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Sounds like you can get six neck blanks out of that piece. Scarf joint and stacked heel of course.



These users thanked the author pat macaluso for the post: dzsmith (Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:13 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 7:48 am 
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That's what I've done to minimize runout.

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These users thanked the author klooker for the post: dzsmith (Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:14 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 8:02 am 
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If I understand you correctly you want to cut that board on an angle that is parallel to the annular rings so they do not run out the side of the neck?

IMHO you don't need to worry about that. But of course you could do it if you want. In the short distance a neck makes by the looks of that board you will be fine. You could also try splitting it to see how it goes and then cut along that edge. But it might be a waste of wood really. Mahogany id very stable. I use flat sawn for necks too. I think that myth has been debunked a long time ago. In fact in many cases flat sawn is stiffer then quartered and mahogany is very stable in all dimensions.

$26 bucks? What a deal!



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post (total 2): Braedyn (Sun Oct 22, 2017 2:58 am) • dzsmith (Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:14 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 8:11 am 
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Thanks guys!
I'll give it a go. I'd prefer to cut diagonally mainly for appearance.
Dan

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 11:55 am 
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If you cut tapered blanks (2 5/8 inches to 2 inches) you could get them closer to "parallel" grained , and by nesting them end for end, maximize your yield (if you don't mind doing an internal scarf joint or gluing "ears" on your peghead).



These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: dzsmith (Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:46 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 12:15 pm 
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I would definitely correct the grain lines ---

Ever see a high line Martin with a flat sawn neck?

For me "every instance" slab material is more prone to twists, cupping and bows --- furniture, models, home construction. Plus its easy to laminate slab into vertical grain.

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These users thanked the author kencierp for the post: dzsmith (Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:48 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 3:43 pm 
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I cut two blanks fairly close to the grain lines.
I think they look great.
I'll let them simmer for a few weeks.
My wife only lets me have four builds in process at the same time.
Thanks again guys!
Dan


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 4:56 pm 
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That looks much better.



These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: dzsmith (Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:26 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 4:57 pm 
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Looks good. While I agree with jfmckenna about the overall stability, the way you cut them will make them way easier to carve with edged weapons.



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post: dzsmith (Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:26 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:13 pm 
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What a beautiful site. Where did you score that plank?



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post: dzsmith (Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:15 am)
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:12 am 
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jfmckenna wrote:
What a beautiful site. Where did you score that plank?

My local Woodcraft in Austin TX usually has a pile of Mahogany.
It's oxidied and is rough cut. Hard to see the grain without sanding.
Prices have ranged from $5 - $7 a board foot.
It's all 4/4 thick, but I don't mind laminating it for a body.
I found a jumbo piece wide enough for a one-piece Explorer back.
Dan


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:25 am 
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$5-7 BF is a pretty good price. Last I bought I found a guy selling on Craigs List and paid $8 BF which is about what I would get it at a near by hardwood dealer.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:08 pm 
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jfmckenna wrote:
$5-7 BF is a pretty good price. Last I bought I found a guy selling on Craigs List and paid $8 BF which is about what I would get it at a near by hardwood dealer.
That is cheap! I can't ever remember it being under $10 in the Seattle area. It's typically 12 ish.

Definitely better to get it as straight as possible. I guess it depends on how high the price goes! They've been saying for ever that is going to not be available, but it seems to keep on coming. I guess it's from plantations and the color is fairly light. Not a big deal as long as it is as stable and works well.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 3:12 pm 
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The stuff I bought on CL was cut in the 1950's. It's all falt sawn though but it has an incredibley nice rich red color to it even after I plane the patina off of it. I got about 8 boards and one of them was highly figured. So it was quite a score :)

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 3:13 pm 
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Oops sorry about the HUGE picture.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:53 pm 
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See, this is why I get depressed. Our local seller has mahogany at $20+ per board foot.



These users thanked the author printer2 for the post: Braedyn (Sun Oct 22, 2017 3:01 am)
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 9:24 pm 
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After a week, my two neck blanks are straight with no sign of movement.
Thanks guys,
Dan

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These users thanked the author dzsmith for the post: Bryan Bear (Wed Oct 25, 2017 9:54 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:06 pm 
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Quick question for you Mahogany guys, anyone know what type of mahogany Home Depot carries? Ours carries Mahogany boards. I ran a Google search and came up with a class action suit against HD.

https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-set ... ed-lumber/

Having grown up around Eucalyptus (that is what some are saying HD is marketing as mahogany) I've never seen any that looks like mahogany. I also read it it harder. Be interesting to see if it is a decent tonewood.


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