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 Post subject: Re: Wax on Fingerboards?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:36 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:20 am
Posts: 2187
Howard's is more of a cleaner and oil with a small amount of wax. Bowling ally wax is more of a surface coating and can be used as a traditional wax finish on otherwise unfinished surfaces.



These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: Hesh (Wed Oct 11, 2017 12:47 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Wax on Fingerboards?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 10:46 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:33 am
Posts: 569
First name: Willard
Last Name: Guthrie
City: Cumberland
State: Maryland 21502
Zip/Postal Code: 21502
Country: United State
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
We favor the Howard product for fretboards due to the ability to cut through the sort of dried residue of dirt and grime mentioned (2/3 mix of mineral oil, orange oil, and naphtha), while Bowling Alley Wax (White Diamond brand, about $40/16 ounces) is preferred where we are primarily concerned with a more durable waxed finish.

Either product is about 1/3 wax, but the differences in which waxes make Feed and Wax better suited to sealing fretwork and Bowling Alley Wax better used for long-term treatment of wood for higher gloss and lasting protection. Feed and Wax is mostly (~65-75%) mineral oil, while Bowling Alley Wax is mineral spirits and turpentine (75%)...so not much difference there, although mineral oil will look 'wet' longer because it is slower to evaporate.

The main difference as far as we can see is in the wax mix, with the Howard product heavy on the softer beeswax and paraffin waxes (with some carnuba) and the Bowling Alley Wax made up of carnuba and microcrystalline waxes. Micro crystalline waxes are very tough in thin layers and very wear resistant, so our choice on bridges or other raw wood that needs long-term protection. At least some of the cost difference is likely the relative expense of carnuba and micro crystalline waxes versus beeswax and paraffin waxes, but again - each product is application-specific as far as our use.

Other options for a harder buffable wax would be straight carnuba or straight micro-crystalline waxes, but the White Diamond product is very high in carnuba, applies easily, and is easier to buff out on wood than Renaissance (micro crystalline wax) or P21s (carnuba wax).

We see these as complementary products - a softer wax-based sealer/cleaner, and a harder, much longer lasting wax finish for high wear areas like bridges. We will sometimes use the Howard product for cleaning and sealing the frets, then follow with Bowling Alley Wax to get a better looking board for a longer period of time.

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These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post: Hesh (Wed Oct 11, 2017 12:49 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Wax on Fingerboards?
PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 3:28 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:20 am
Posts: 2187
When Johnson and Johnson wax bought Butcher's wax they stopped making it. BWC bought the right to make it and sells 1 pound cans for about $19.00 .

http://www.conservationsupportsystems.c ... x-formulat


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 Post subject: Re: Wax on Fingerboards?
PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:44 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 2567
Always used canning wax myself. Rub on and burnish in with a cloth.

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