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| E6000 work in place of Duco cement http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=48754 |
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| Author: | Logan [ Sat Dec 24, 2016 2:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | E6000 work in place of Duco cement |
Has anyone used E6000 adhesive to glue celluloid bindings with wood purflings? I have a build coming up with celluloid binding and herringbone purfling. I know most people use duco cement for this but it's hard to find in Canada, and is $12 an ounce on amazon.ca. I'm sensitive to the fumes from cyanoacrylate so I tend to use it sparingly and would prefer to stay away from it for this purpose. I guess I could always make up my own adhesive by melting some celluloid in acetone. |
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| Author: | Glen H [ Sat Dec 24, 2016 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: E6000 work in place of Duco cement |
E6000 is great for fixing tennis shoes but I don't know how well it would hold binding. Test it. Glue a scrap of binding to a piece of wood and see how hard it is to peel off. |
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| Author: | kencierp [ Sat Dec 24, 2016 4:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: E6000 work in place of Duco cement |
I certainly would never use a hand made guitar project for a long term adhesive durability experiment -- if it fails two years from now, then what? Pretty sure liquid hide and hhg are used successfully with celluloid -- Google it |
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| Author: | Woodie G [ Sun Dec 25, 2016 9:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: E6000 work in place of Duco cement |
Celluloid nitrate (ivoroid, tortoid, or the Axiom black & white binding and purfling materials) can also be glued with Titebond and acetone - the cellulose nitrate is 'primed' with acetone to soften the surface, and the channel is coated with Titebond. We usually use CA or a methylene chloride based glue (like IPS's Weld-On #16) for cellulose nitrate bindings and purflings to avoid the swelling and shrinkage that acetone-based glues like Duco cause, but if the task allows a wait of a few days for the binding to shrink back down before sanding or scraping, the Titebond and acetone method works. With any adhesive and plastic binding material, we always make sure the plastic is clean and deglossed before use to remove parting agents or shop storage contamination: a wipe with naptha after a light deglossing with a fresh maroon ScotchBrite pad on the surfaces to be glued seems to work well. I like this method for rebinding lacquer-finished instruments when fresh binding is being applied (we usually use BSI CA Gold for handling Martins shedding their ABS/PVC alloy Bolteron bindings - Titebond does not hold the material and plastics glues eat the finish). The acetone priming of the cellulose nitrate material is done off the instrument, and the Titebond cleans up quickly. There are very few things in this shop we use Titebond for beyond jigs and fixtures, but this use plays to the glue's strengths of easy cleanup on finished surfaces and moderate open time. |
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| Author: | Bob Shanklin [ Sun Dec 25, 2016 11:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: E6000 work in place of Duco cement |
Logan, you should be able to get Duco cement at any hobby shop. I see it here in Ontario regularly. Bob |
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| Author: | bobgramann [ Sun Dec 25, 2016 2:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: E6000 work in place of Duco cement |
I've used E6000 for boat repair ( I'm a whitewater canoeist). It is more flexible than I would like for any use in guitar making. I would worry that the finish would not adhere to the glue line. |
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| Author: | Logan [ Mon Dec 26, 2016 1:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: E6000 work in place of Duco cement |
I did some further research and found a company in Canada that has Weldon 16 for a reasonable price. Since my original post I have watched video's about E6000 and it looks way to flexible for any process I can think of in guitar building. |
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