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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 12:58 pm 
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First name: Bob
Last Name: Shanklin
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I know a few of the members have purchased this plane. I am curious on your thoughts about this plane, as I am thinking of getting one.

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Thanks, Bob


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 2:35 pm 
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I tried one, and it was nice, but to me, not worth the cost for the limited use I'd put it to. An old Stanley #4 or #5 works quite well.

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 3:02 pm 
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Bob Shanklin wrote:
I know a few of the members have purchased this plane. I am curious on your thoughts about this plane, as I am thinking of getting one.

Image

Thanks, Bob



Worth every penny, get the PVM11 blade women will love you, tough gnarly wood will fear you :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:55 pm 
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I was pretty sure you had bought one Greg.

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 9:33 am 
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Sloping the ramp on the shooting board yields the shear cut action using a plane you may already have on hand -- nice tool but over $350 is a lot of bucks. Just a thought.

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:17 am 
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I had a chance to check out Greg's plane. It is a superb tool and does the job very, very well. Obviously there are other ways to get the job done but if you want to spoil yourself a bit then why not. After all, most of us have at least one or two premium tools that we don't really need but sure do enjoy using.

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Clinchriver (Mon May 16, 2016 10:18 am)
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:35 am 
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What a wickedly cool tool - in a Buck Rogers sort of way! If I were shooting miters in casework all day, I might be tempted to buy one, but the angled frog and low cutting angle tells me it is meant for trimming end grain in joint making, rather than shooting short lengths of long grain, and I don't think there are all that many occasions in luthiery when we smooth end grain to a square, flat surface, finished surface and cannot do it as accurately with a sharp block plane and a bench hook.

I would also think that there is no compelling reason to skew a blade when jointing long grain unless the edge is vertical grain and prone to tear-out...and as we are usually jointing a flat-sawn/face-grain edge, there would have to be a lot of Shaker-style casework or architectural woodworking in my future to justify the cost versus a very nice vintage jack (with a good aftermarket replacement blade and chip breaker installed...) as Mr. Cierpilowski shows to advantage in a prior post.

On the angled frog versus ramped shooting board: I believe these features are present in each case for different reasons, with the shooting plane meant for end grain work (where skewed, low angle cutting is of benefit) and the ramped shooting board for spreading the wear across more of the cutting edge when working thinner stock. The shooting board design the boss details in his 'Making/Using a Luthier's Shooting Board' videos is ramped, but only because - given that they are intended for edge-jointing thin stock - it saves a bit of time at the sharpening bench.

In summary, if not already in possession of a good Lie-Nielsen low angle adjustable block plane and a nice vintage jack plane, I think the $350+ would likely be put to better use for those tools and some sharpening gear.

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These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post: bionta (Mon May 16, 2016 3:56 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:46 am 
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"Worth every penny, get the PVM11 blade women will love you, tough gnarly wood will fear you"

I think women would love the plane more.


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 11:06 am 
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WendyW wrote:
"Worth every penny, get the PVM11 blade women will love you, tough gnarly wood will fear you"

I think women would love the plane more.
nope :mrgreen:

I've got plenty of really nice sharpening utensils and know how to use them. The Shoot Board Plane does a really nice job easily with better control, (I've joined plenty of tops and backs with a Stanlet #4 and a hock blade) and while making the occasional piece of period furniture I'll actually use it for its intended purpose. I recently joined a highly figured set of Chechen and I don't think it would have happened with anything less than the PVM11 blade, very hard tough wood.


Last edited by Clinchriver on Mon May 16, 2016 5:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 11:14 am 
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So many possible responses...so few that will not end in either riot or pictures of goats.

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 1:02 pm 
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It seems nice - a lot of money for something that is so specialized. I can shoot perfect joints, e.g., back and top joints, with a block plane. So that Veritas won't ever become part of my tool set.

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These users thanked the author SteveCourtright for the post: kencierp (Mon May 16, 2016 2:22 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 4:27 pm 
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A stanley 6 7 or 8 will do as good
the key to any hand plane is SHARP. If the blade doesn't shave you have a dull blade.

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 4:55 pm 
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Chechen, end grain in sections.


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 6:09 pm 
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A few years ago there was a Veritas booth at the Tacoma GAL. The guy was demonstrating the plane in question as a tool for jointing tops and backs. Wrong! I've been using planes for over 40 years on instruments, but truthfully I don't know a lot about the ins and outs of them. I just get good blades, keep them sharp, and use them. Some I like and some I don't. At the time I had some extra cash from selling wood and I went for the Veritas plane. It is a very cool looking tool. However, as I later figured out, it is designed for shooting end grain, not long grain. In practice, even though I tried things like changing the sharpening angle, it just would not do what my Bailey #7 does with a hock blade. It was O.K., but the Bailey was definitely better.I ended up selling the Veritas on eBay at a bit of a loss. I called veritas on the issue of it not doing a great job on jointing long grain and they said I should not have bought it for that purpose because it was deigned for end grain. They're right, but I was a little ticked that it had been demonstrated at the GAL for long grain jointing. I should have had "eyes wide open" and not been taken in by the sales pitch.You can buy an old #7 on eBay, although you probably don't need 1 that long, for a lot less $ than the Veritas, and it is better for the task of jointing tops and backs. I'd say spend your $ elsewhere.

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These users thanked the author Pegasusguitars for the post: James Orr (Mon May 16, 2016 6:55 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 6:17 pm 
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Looks like pretty crazy stuff to joint Clinchriver. I had some Bubinga which drove me crazy until I backbeveled the blade 10 degrees, sharpened to 12.000 grit and set the mouth and cut gossamer fine. (Record no. 5)

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These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: Clinchriver (Mon May 16, 2016 7:00 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 7:01 pm 
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Bob beat me to it. Look at the picture they use to advertise the plane. These babies are made with mass and a comfy handle to help shoot and square end grain. They should do just fine to shoot long grain joints, but they're overkill for what we do on our guitars.

Check out this video starting at 29:30 for an example.


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 7:06 pm 
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Colin North wrote:
Looks like pretty crazy stuff to joint Clinchriver. I had some Bubinga which drove me crazy until I backbeveled the blade 10 degrees, sharpened to 12.000 grit and set the mouth and cut gossamer fine. (Record no. 5)


I believe I took some bubinga to our luthiers meeting for the guys to try, it was next to impossible with the #4 (it would tear out in spots) but with the Veritas PVM11 freshly sharpened and stropped it was a piece of cake. Scary sharp is better.

Bob asked if anybody had one and what did they think? The folks that have had or tried one have given their honest opinions, I like mine and enjoy using it :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 7:33 pm 
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I was fortunate to be invited to Bruce Sexauer's shop today and received some hands on instruction by a master guitar builder. He showed me, and I used, his old wood shooting plane. With a razor sharp blade it's hard to imagine anything better at any price. Of course technique is everything. I could tell just by the sound when a spot needed a little work. I was so impressed that I will attempt to build one for myself. In the mean time, I found an old #5 Jack plane I'm rehabing to start my build with. It's a wonderful thing how this community shares it's knowledge.

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These users thanked the author BradHall for the post: James Orr (Mon May 16, 2016 7:58 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 9:32 pm 
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I had considered a chute plane, or rather repurposing a #6 and fabbing a more ergonomic handle out of a block of something nice. It's still on my list of thing to get at.

Lie- nielsen also makes their own version, or for those who must have the real thing a stanley 51 if you can find one. Last plane and chute I saw went for $1250

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