Two solutions:
One buy the Collins Saddle Mill....
for $2700 and elongate the saddle slot..... (KIDDING OF COURSE....)Two: drill a hole at a sideways angle into the slot end and below the visible surface that will be suitable to tuck the transducer tip into. This is a practice that we've detailed before on the OLF and we do it all of the time. The transducers usually are pretty dead near the tip anyway so this takes the dead spot out of play and neatly tucks it under the end of the saddle slot. Mind you you don't want the hole to come through the bridge and you also don't want the tool marks to show outside the saddle slot so the drill bit should be no bigger than required for the transducer element tip but smaller than the slot width.
I'll add that if the transducer is braided it's helpful then place the saddle on top of it and tap it with a small hammer with the saddle crown protected in leather. The point of all of this is to gently mash the braided element into a more uniform and complete contact with the saddle bottom.
It's also helpful to have the saddle loose enough that it pulls out with finger tip pressure but never so loose so that it has any wiggle room to tip one way or the other. The point of this is to be sure that the saddle can travel on top of the transducer freely.
As for the other end of the transducer where either the braided element continues or there is a wire an angled hole taking care to never, never, never drill though the X brace or any other brace and Bob's your uncle.