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Brilliant!!

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Argh, he talks so slow. Can you just tell me what his solution is so I don't have to fish through the video for the one or two important sentences?

Make your own 2side tape by glueing two pieces of masking tape back to back with CA.g

Oh, brother...

To each his/her own. The less CA there is in my life, the better. I'll adhere to my current practice of using double-sided.

Thanks

But I fail to see the benefit compared to real double stick. You use twice the length of tape, and some glue, and get fumes in the air, and risk gluing the piece to the bench... for what?

Seems like a solution searching for a problem to me.....

We use self stick paper on our leveling beams and we do a LOT of fret work as well. As such we have to change paper pretty often and it's never a big deal which is why I am wondering why this is a solution to anything...

The paper pulls off with little effort and occasionally tears but with a single edged razor blade it's easy to remove the pieces. Then some Naphtha on a paper towel and the adhesive cleans off the beam nicely. This entire operation might take me 5 minutes tops, likely less.

I also have a problem with padding.... the leveling beams with multiple layers of anything. We are relying on the beam's flatness precision lapped on a surface plate. When we let the business side be padded with multiple layers of softer material that precision level set is lost to some degree.

Also although a nit.... I've wondered and even measured paper before wanting to know if the thickness of the self-stick sand paper is consistent and I find this to be mostly true but I have also found exceptions in what I measure. I suspect that masking tape may be inconsistent in thickness as well. Using both at the same time compounds the errors and that translates to the work that we do with the beam.

Not good....

I'll add that we don't have to remove paper to change grits. Instead we have multiple beams each dedicated to a certain grit and at times we take it all the way to around 600 grit with a special lapping paper that has a level of precision to it's thickness. Not recommending taking fret leveling to a lapping paper mind you but for certain players it's a nice option to have when the weekend wedding player likes action of 3 and 3 on his Les Paul we can get him there with our fret work.

Instead of using double stick consider self-stick, quality paper with the 3M stuff coming to mind. A can of Naphtha, a single edged razor blade and you won't need any stinkin CA.

The weird thing is that this guy seems to be in the UK, the home of Sellotape. I've got a stash of Sellotape general purpose double-sided tape with peel-off backing and use it for sticking sandpaper, holding templates, and a ton of other daily uses. The backing paper means my fingers never touch the adhesive, unlike other brand tapes I've seen. The stuff is magic. Picked it up in a variety of sizes in New Zealand, but damned if I can find anything like it in Canada! Hopefully I'll find a local alternative, before my stash runs out and I have to resort to CA!


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The fact that nobody grabbed onto my adhere pun really stuck with me. I guess I should just roll with it, dispense with the negative feelings, and try to duck (or is it duct?) any criticism. Or just hide. I guess I'm too clingy.

Don't get stuck on it Don.

When you don't have double sided tape , but need it, it is a good way to make some. I don't keep double sided tape on hand, and I have used this trick once or twice. Spray glue can also stick the tape together, or in fact be used as the "sticky" to make double sided tape. Knowing as many "work arounds" as possible often helps the job get done.

I'd posted this concept back in July - http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=45927 - in the context of a discussion about double-sided tape for sticking plates to the bench for hand planing. Quite a few found it very useful.

The points are (a) you can leave the lower pieces of tape longer than the plate, so that it's easy to start peeling it up when you've finished planing, and (b) the tape comes up easier, and off the plate easier, thus reducing the risk of cracking your nicely-thinned plate. Obviously you need enough strips of tape to keep your plate (or fretboard) flat enough - one every couple of inches of width seems to work for me.

Conventional double-sided tape is, of course much thinner, and I use that for preference in other applications. But I find this really good for thicknessing via hand planing, particularly on ukulele plates and sides.

Occasionally we hand plane small size veneers pieces and also need to secure small work blanks to a CNC machine bed --- hot melt glue along the edges is what we use. Keeps the work in place, the plane or bit shaves it out of the way if too high with no issues --- pops off the bed or fixture with a sharp chisel.

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Weird. We appear to have short memories. Must be the acetone. This was a hot discussion topic a few months ago. I'll just stick (pun) with double side carpet tape from Lowes. It's a bear to remove and precisely why I like it. Also, because it's cloth, it acts as its own safety barrier when using a scraper to remove it.

Mike

Hot glue also releases with alcohol. Sounds like it's not needed in this case, but comes in handy sometimes

Yes indeed. CA causes problems for me and I use it as little as possible. Any double sided tape I have had has not been much of a problem.
Tom

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Forgot about that -- good tip, just recently heard about it on a model airplane forum I visit occasionally.

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