meddlingfool wrote:
I flood the area around the inserts with CA. They prove impossible to remove and re use. Unless you wanted to chip the neck off around it and use CA solvent which doesn't seem like a good trade for a bucks worth of insert. I've tried.
This is what I've learned to do too…no failures yet
Basically, my OP was about how to get the neck to fit better. I think that the recommendation to figure out where the apparent instability is in my jig that is causing the poor leveling of the initial rout is going to be key if I keep using the Simpson jig. The M/T issue is really a separate issue for me, because the problem is actually arising with the initial rout which is to set the neck angle on the neck block (which then, if doing M/T, subsequently gets the tenon routed after, leaving the same, non-level surface, which in turn requires an unacceptable amount of adjustment to get a good fit neck to body (cosmetically).
This step still needs to be done whether I use M/T, Dovetail or Butt joint and I should have asked the question in a better way.
So maybe I should ask…without regard to how you fasten the neck on, what jig or process do you use to create the neck angle on the heel block (I know some use a technique that shims the body so the rims are perpendicular with the table, and do the math so there's no neck angle, but that's not how I want to do it).
back and forth angle is set using the edge sander and miter guage, using the actual FB, bridge, and a straight edge.
