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Paul Burner
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:45 pm 
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Location: Lincoln, NE
First name: Paul
Last Name: Burner
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Zip/Postal Code: 68506
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
In 2014 I am doing a build with Ziricote sides and back and a matching Ziri fingerboard.

I've not done anything like this and I'm wondering about how to get the best look (closest to matching the finished sides/back) on the fingerboard? Do you use some type of oil or polish on the fingerboard?

I'm concerned that a "raw" Ziri fingerboard will look odd next to the finished sides and back.

Looking for guidance on what to do.

Thanks

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DennisK
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 4:10 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Raw is fine with the usual fingerboard oil.

Filippo

...and what is "the usual fingerboard oil"? I don't normally put anything on fingerboards, other than accumulated finger grunge :P
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Clay S.
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:09 pm 
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Mineral oil, same as used for salad bowls. Some like lemon oil (mineral oil) and beeswax.
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B. Howard
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:51 am 
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I use Lemon oil, Taylor recommends Linseed oil.......

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RustySP
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 9:09 am 
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Mentioned in other threads is Howard's Feed N Wax.
I got it at Lowe's and like it.


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John Sonksen
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:58 am 
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I used Behlen fingerboard oil on one and it looks great
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Beth Mayer
PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:02 am 
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Just completed a dred with Zircote FB and bridge. Polished the bridge to 15000 with micro mesh which made it shine, then used Johnson's paste wax on FB. It looked like Ziri under satin finish.


These users thanked the author Beth Mayer for the post: Paul Burner (Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:06 am)
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Paul Burner
PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:08 am 
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Status: Amateur
Hey Beth....

How about some photos and what steps did you take to get the bridge (and fingerboard?) to 15000? I've NEVER gone that far before - so would love to learn the process.

Thanks!

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Beth Mayer
PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 1:42 pm 
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HI Paul,

It doesn't show up well in the photo I took, but I did attach one that shows both bridge and a bit of FB.
The bridge was sanded to 400 dry. I then went through the entire range of 3M Micromesh pads that I bought from SM, using each to successively remove the scratches from the one before. At the end, it shone like I had put a satin lacquer on it.

The FB was sanded to 320 before fretting. After the final fretwork was done, I used 4-0 steel wool dipped into the Johnson's paste wax and swirled it on in circles, over the entire fretted board. Once done, I wiped with a lint free cloth to remove any excess paste wax.

Hope the explanation helps even if the picture doesn't idunno


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