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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 3:28 pm 
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Hi. I recently bought this nicholson from my local flea market. $8.

Image

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I like the way it cuts, and the smooth surface it leaves behind, but it's got a lot of corrosion on it. What is the best way to get this off, if any. I thought of trying steel wool, but don't know if that would dull the cutting teeth and ruin the file. Any help is appreciated.

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Robert Hosmer
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 3:53 pm 
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If the rust is a concern, probably best to remove it chemically (dipping) rather than mechanically (scrubbing).
"Rust remover" is easy to get from the common woodworking suppliers (Lee Valley, Grizzly, etc.) Look in the section for cleaning supplies, lubricants, tool care.

I've also used acetic acid.

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Chris Pile
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 3:57 pm 
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A quick dip in dilute muriatic acid solution to remove the rust, then dip in water dosed with a spoonful of baking soda to counteract the acid. Rinse well, and blow dry.

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Michael.N.
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 4:04 pm 
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Use it!


These users thanked the author Michael.N. for the post: Pmaj7 (Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:50 am)
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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 4:36 pm 
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Chris, Robert, thanks. Can I get these chemicals at Lowes?

Michael.N. wrote:
Use it!

Definitely. I already have. I've got a neck build in progress. When it comes time to shape the back it'll get a workout.

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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 6:55 pm 
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A quick perusal of Lowes' website tells me they carry muriatic acid. Might give that a try. The only rust remover they list is CLR. Not sure if that'll work, but I should have some around here, so I may give it a dip in that, first.

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Chris Pile
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 10:39 pm 
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One of the hot rod websites I visit daily also suggest molasses.
They recommend it for bodywork, but this is surface rust - so why not?

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John Killin
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:34 pm 
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I haven't tried this on a file, but citric acid (like they use for canning) will remove rust.

With cast iron parts (I've done this on old machinery) it removes the rust without removing the surface iron.

After using any acid, dip in a baking soda bath to neutralize the acid.
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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:48 am 
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Thanks for the help. I have read here a couple of times about a baking soda bath to neutralize acid. What's the ratio of baking soda to water?

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MarkParkinson
PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 5:13 pm 
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Todd Stock wrote:
Rasps are sharpened by dipping them in acid (nitric, acetic, etc.), rinsing in caustic soda or other base. The teeth get toasted over time, but the method is good for a couple resharpenings before too much metal is removed to make them useful. Boggs Tool has a sharpening service, but not sure I want to pay $10 plus postage and handling each way to sharpen a $15 tool. For a hand-stiched or better cabinetmaker's rasp (US-made Nicholsen #49 or #50), I would use muriatic acid and closely monitor. For rust cleanup, either use electrolysis or a vinegar dip (can take several days), then rinse and lube. FWIW, Aurious recommends a natural stiff bristle brush to clean rasps...even a brass or mild steel brush will dull teeth over time. If you have a real issue cleaning out the teeth on finer hand-stitched rasps, try using a rust preventative like BoeShield or WD40...spray, saturate, wait a few minutes, then brush with natural bristle brush.


hey

please could you tell me if this rasp is ok?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-bahco- ... rod898806/

is there any benefit to fitting your own handle

thanks
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the Padma
PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 5:46 pm 
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MarkParkinson wrote:

hey

please could you tell me if this rasp is ok?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-bahco- ... rod898806/

is there any benefit to fitting your own handle

thanks


Mark ...Ya it will make saw dust and get the job done, but what you expect for £14.95 ?

Re: fitting handles on files...if for what ever reason you don't like a handle is good enough reason to change it.

If it don't gotts no handle...well then use it anyways or at least until the tang punctures your palm and then you will appreciate the benefits of fitting a handle to a file. laughing6-hehe

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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 7:35 pm 
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Todd Stock wrote:
Rasps are sharpened by dipping them in acid (nitric, acetic, etc.), rinsing in caustic soda or other base. The teeth get toasted over time, but the method is good for a couple resharpenings before too much metal is removed to make them useful. Boggs Tool has a sharpening service, but not sure I want to pay $10 plus postage and handling each way to sharpen a $15 tool. For a hand-stiched or better cabinetmaker's rasp (US-made Nicholsen #49 or #50), I would use muriatic acid and closely monitor. For rust cleanup, either use electrolysis or a vinegar dip (can take several days), then rinse and lube. FWIW, Aurious recommends a natural stiff bristle brush to clean rasps...even a brass or mild steel brush will dull teeth over time. If you have a real issue cleaning out the teeth on finer hand-stitched rasps, try using a rust preventative like BoeShield or WD40...spray, saturate, wait a few minutes, then brush with natural bristle brush.

The file is stamped Nicholson USA on the tang. How would you use the muriatic acid? How long would I soak it, and what am I monitoring?
Thanks.

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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 9:35 pm 
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Thanks, Todd. Much appreciated. A couple more questions and I'll leave you alone.
You say to check the edges and see if they feel sharper. How? Can I use my hands? Will the muriatic acid harm my skin?(I would think so, but never used it)
Also, what ratio of baking soda to water? How long in that bath?
Thanks again, and I appreciate it.

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Mike Baker
PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 9:50 pm 
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Thanks a lot. Again, appreciated.

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MarkParkinson
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 4:25 pm 
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MarkParkinson wrote:
Todd Stock wrote:
Rasps are sharpened by dipping them in acid (nitric, acetic, etc.), rinsing in caustic soda or other base. The teeth get toasted over time, but the method is good for a couple resharpenings before too much metal is removed to make them useful. Boggs Tool has a sharpening service, but not sure I want to pay $10 plus postage and handling each way to sharpen a $15 tool. For a hand-stiched or better cabinetmaker's rasp (US-made Nicholsen #49 or #50), I would use muriatic acid and closely monitor. For rust cleanup, either use electrolysis or a vinegar dip (can take several days), then rinse and lube. FWIW, Aurious recommends a natural stiff bristle brush to clean rasps...even a brass or mild steel brush will dull teeth over time. If you have a real issue cleaning out the teeth on finer hand-stitched rasps, try using a rust preventative like BoeShield or WD40...spray, saturate, wait a few minutes, then brush with natural bristle brush.


hey

please could you tell me if this rasp is ok?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-bahco- ... rod898806/

is there any benefit to fitting your own handle

thanks


yes it's quite cheap, but I don't know what the rasp will be used for yet so I don't know whether I need a high quality one

I am in the process of buying lots of tools, and sometimes it can be hard to know how high to go - know what I mean?

I have a bahco saw, it seems good, but I have nothing to compare it to

what about this? http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Con ... m_No4.html
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