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Titebond 3 for binding? http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=40259 |
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Author: | meddlingfool [ Sat May 04, 2013 6:18 pm ] |
Post subject: | Titebond 3 for binding? |
Any reason not to use it for binding? |
Author: | Lavrov Guitars [ Sat May 04, 2013 6:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
Hey I think you might have missed it but there was a thread not too long ago that compared all the titebond glues and their applications. It was backed by someone that used to work for titebond or another glue manufacturer. Do a quick search it was like a month or two ago. |
Author: | Lavrov Guitars [ Sat May 04, 2013 7:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=31065&hilit=Titebond Here's the link ![]() |
Author: | DannyV [ Sat May 04, 2013 7:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
It creeps. You don't want your bindings to creep do you? ![]() ![]() |
Author: | meddlingfool [ Sat May 04, 2013 8:13 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
Thanks for that link. I think I confused TB 3 with TB extend. I bought the 3 for the longer open time for binding. Sometimes the glue I use gets hard and lumpy before the apprentice can finish the joints, and he's getting stressed out trying to do it fast, not a good approach when binding IMO. As for creep in the binding, well, I don't really see how that could in any way be an issue. But, I'm all for re edification... |
Author: | DannyV [ Sat May 04, 2013 10:33 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
DannyV wrote: It creeps. You don't want your bindings to creep do you? ![]() ![]() But of course I'm kidding. I don't think there are too many glues that wouldn't work for binding. For sure longer open time would be best if you don't use CA. Cheers, Danny |
Author: | Josh H [ Sat May 04, 2013 11:11 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
Have you tried fish glue? I start at the tail wedge and once I get my mitred joints in place I apply glue to the binding channels from the tail to the neck block. I'm able to glue the whole piece up with no issues. I've done it enough that I'm fairly quick, but I've never had an issue with the fish glue getting to tacky before I get the tape on it. You can still do it in smaller sections if that helps. When I switched from titebond to fish for binding I found that it made a huge difference when it came to cleaning up the binding. The fish glue is harder and scrapes and sands nicer than the titebond. |
Author: | meddlingfool [ Sat May 04, 2013 11:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
I've never tried fish glue. That's definitely a good thought. Is an overnight dry time long enough? |
Author: | meddlingfool [ Sun May 05, 2013 10:38 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
I've read a few reports where people have had trouble with the bindings leeching color into the end grain of the spruce because of the long wet time.... |
Author: | meddlingfool [ Sun May 05, 2013 5:24 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
And the fish glue will stick to shellac? |
Author: | Nils [ Mon May 06, 2013 8:48 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Titebond 3 for binding? |
I've been using original titebond for this...however, what I do to extend the open time is to thin it just slightly with water. I'll put a few squirts it in a dixie cup and add just a tiny bit of water, and then use a small brush to apply it. Just be careful to not over thin it, as I think I managed to have it seep into some end grain... |
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