I think the blade makes the biggest difference. Just select accordingly. If you have a serious Bandsaw then your options are so much greater. My small Bandsaw is junk but coupled with a thin gauge blade transforms it to a very useful piece of equipment. I even replaced the bearing guides (poor quality) with simple hardwood dowels, that was an extremely cheap upgrade!

The problem with turning the wheel to release the tension at the end of the day... it's real easy to forget and turn the saw on with low tension... then there is a problem. Also how do you remember where the tension was?

But then in the past I never took tension off and never had a problem, if the saw won't be used for months and months I will definitely take the tension off.

Easy, when you release the tension ensure that you've dropped the upper blade guard/guide down to the table. When you go to use the saw you will have a reminder to set it while you raise the guides.

Doesn't your saw have a tension guide? Even if it does, you should start using other references such as listening to its pitch as you pluck it like a guitar string. As the tension increases so will the pitch. Also, just push the blade sideways and feel its resistance. You want to involve all of your senses in how you work.

It's hard to tell from your picture of the lower guide block if you have the teeth of the blade going though the blocks--if so, that usually doesn't work very well. A very simple and inexpensive upgrade is to replace the metal guide blocks with Cool Blocks, a graphite impregnated laminate. They are worth the few dollars they cost.

If I had an expensive blade in the saw, I would make sure to de-tension it when I wasn't working with it. Depending on what you cut, the carbide tips on a blade can outlast the blade. There's no sense hastening the decline of the blade by metal fatigue.

Sounds like you have it all figured out. I don't envy your having to remove the blade after each resaw session.