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Yes, for classical guitar building it really isn't the most comprehensive resource. Yes, it will get a guitar built, but it doesn't help you get a good handle on the classical guitar.

For the money, if I had to buy only one book on the subject, it would be the Courtnall book. No question.

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
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+1!

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I appreciate the insight on the Courtnall book. I'll get me a copy for sure.

In the meantime, I looked at my plans and decided to try to carve out the bridge...







This is a piece of Cherry that came from a cutoff from a bookshelf I made a year or so ago. The initial dimensions of the blank were about 7" by 1.5" by 1.25". I drew the profile of the bridge on the side of the block and got to sawing...this is what I ended up with 30 minutes or so later. I tried cutting out the bridge using a jeweler's saw, attempting to leave plenty of space around the drawing so as not to get too close. Well, the jeweler's saw strayed on me a bit and I got really close (within 1mm) to the drawing. I used a chisel to shape it up some. From here, I can sand it down to the final profile. It might work for me. But, as was stated earlier, Cherry is probably too soft for the bridge. I think the strings will dig into the tie block over time. But it's good practice nonetheless.

Here are a few pics I took of the Cherry I'm thinking of using for the sides...



That is a 3' straight edge beside it, so they're pretty long.







Sorry for the blurriness...camera phone. As you can see in the last image, there is a taper across the width. This piece is at about 3/16". I wiped it with mineral spirits to show color and grain, but the images don't really convey that. The piece on the right has been planed. The piece on the left hasn't. It's at about 1/8" thickness.

I also have this piece of walnut that my father-in-law gave me...I'm thinking about using it for a neck, though not necessarily on this guitar.





This piece tapers lengthwise from about 4" to about 6". It's been air dried for about 20 years.

That looks like some nice cherry, straight grained and quartered. Give it a tap..you will be surprised at how well it sounds. Just as good as mahogany in my opinion. Do you have a matching back for it? Cherry is relatively inexpensive so if not, you might consider going to your local wood supplier and finding a nice quartered 8"+ wide board to resaw and get a matched back and sides set. Depending on the size board you would probably get some extra material in case you screw up a side during bending. I have seen cherry used for a banjo neck and it sounded great. It should work for a guitar neck very well. I haven't worked cherry yet but I have heard it's very easy to work, about like mahogany. It should sound similar to mahogany but maybe a bit brighter. It's an excellent choice for a first build. I just resawed some that I plan to use for neck/back/sides on a bouzouki sometime soon. I don't recommend using that walnut board for the neck. The grain is too squirrely. You want nice straight grain lines for the neck for strength.

I wouldn't use that walnut for a neck. The grain orientation looks wrong to me for that.
I have made a number of dulcimers from purple heart, it seems to bend fine. The heat sometimes brings the oils to the surface but it can usually be sanded back and will eventually take on a uniform purple color. One caveat - some boards will fade over time to a brownish color, others seem to remain purple indefinitely.
As to spruce or cedar, for a first build I would be inclined to go with spruce as it is less easily dented, which is also a plus for a child's guitar.

Shaping the Cherry bridge is pretty much done. Sanded to 320, marked for saddle location.

Here's the piece that I might use for the neck...







This is a piece of Cherry, about 2 1/2" X 5 7/8" X 55". Not sure if I should cut it into planks or just cut out the profile of the complete neck.

Question for those who have built the 1888 Torres short scale (or other similar guitar)...

Exactly how long do I need to cut the neck blank? The plan doesn't specify. It says that it's a 604mm scale...but that's the distance from nut to saddle. 302mm would be the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, which is where the slots for the body are cut...but how can I be sure about the length of the entire neck?

Is there not a drawing? If not, you'll have to draw it out full size. Draw the neck in profile starting with the scale length for reference. Draw on the head as well as the fingerboard extension over the body, the heel, and the internal foot. Take your measurement from that.

I'll double check the measurements later and post back, unless someone beats me to it.

_________________
Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

I agree with Doug. You need to be working from some kind of plan. No plan leaves too much room for error. For a guitar to work, all the parts have to work together.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I'm working from the 1888 Torres short scale plan (LMI's PL59). Nowhere on this plan, however, does it show the overall length of the neck. I may be able to deduce the length from other measurements included in the plan.

As far as materials go, here's what I'm thinking:

Soundboard - Grade A Englemann Spruce from LMI
Back/Sides - Cherry (pictured above)
Neck - Cherry (pictured above)
Fretboard - Walnut (from the picture above, since it isn't suitable for the neck)
Bracing - Cherry
Bridge - Walnut
Faceplate - Walnut
Finish - French Polish
Binding - Walnut or Cherry

Thoughts??

Fretboard - Walnut (from the picture above, since it isn't suitable for the neck)
Bracing - Cherry



I don't think that board of walnut will help you too much - try to find a hardwood shop - walnut is not too expensive to get a fretboard size or even East Indian rosewood - you want straight grain -

bracing - I would stick to spruce for your bracing, Cherry or any hardwood would be less than ideal.


+1 for Cumpiano -

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Without seeing the actual plans I'm not sure what to say about the neck billet length. I think Doug nailed it though. You will need to measure from the end of the headstock to the toe of the foot. Is there not a drawing of the foot?

All of those look good except for the braces and fretboard. For the braces you want to be light and stiff. Cherry is probably acceptable for the back braces, but consider spruce for the top braces which is about the lightest and stiffest wood available. Walnut might not be a good choice for the fretboard...you want a very hard wood to withstand the wear from pressing down the strings. Ebony and Honduran rosewood are the best choices for fretboard woods and if you want local consider honey mesquite, Texas ebony, or persimmon.

Edit: what John A said...that walnut board is not instrument grade. You want straight and quarted.

Most of those plans are full size, and have measurement checking blocks to compare to your rule. Measure the neck and judge from there. If the nut is 5 mm and the distance to the body join is 302 from the front edge of the nut and the neck extends into the body by 30 mm, then you have 337 minimum shaft from the base of the headstock. Add the headstock length or the amount you'll need to do a scarf joint plus the headstock length, and you are home free. Don't forget the Spanish foot when figuring out your stacked heel, which should come from the same wood. If you are cutting a one piece out of a larger stick, then figure the Spanish Foot and the headstock length into the total length of your stick.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Okay, so based on the recommendations from those more experienced than I am, I will change the materials to this:

Soundboard - Grade A Englemann Spruce from LMI
Back/Sides - Cherry (pictured above)
Neck - Cherry (pictured above)
Fretboard - Purpleheart (LMI)
Bracing - Cherry for back, Spruce for top
Bridge - Purpleheart (LMI)
Faceplate - Purpleheart (LMI)
Finish - French Polish
Binding - Walnut or Cherry

I measured the length of the sides last night by laying a piece of twine around the perimeter of the treble side of the body. The length of the side boards will have to be 23 5/8". The Cherry boards that I have are about 60" long, so I will be able to cut one of the boards in half and have enough wood for both sides. I'm going to leave them about 6" too long until I bend them and then trim off the excess.

I plan to cut the other thin Cherry board and make the back. I think I will just have enough width once they're glued together.

So, what are your recommendations for cutting the neck blank? Should I cut a board off my billet and make the neck in the traditional way of using a scarf joint and then a stacked heel, or should I just take a jig saw or band saw and cut the neck out of the billet in one piece? Given the size of that billet, I should be able to get about 4 necks out of it by cutting it out as a solid one-piece neck. Which would you do?

Regarding glue, is Elmer's wood glue sufficient, or should I buy something different?

Again, I thank you all for your advice .

I got to thinking that you are making a classical guitar not a steel string so you probably wont get gouging on the fretboard like on steel string guitars if using a softer wood. (this would take years of heavy playing anyway). So the purpleheart should be fine.

If possible try to cut the sides so they will be book matched. Also, book match the back.

For doing the neck you should probably do it how whatever guide book you are using explains, but I cut my necks all from one piece. It's a bit more wasteful but It saves the steps of doing the scarf joint and stacked heel and the end result looks cleaner. To do this you will need to square up the billet, set up your band saw with a resaw blade (3 TPI or so), make sure the blade is square to the table, trace the side and top profiles on the billet, cut to the side profile first, rout the truss rod channel while you have a straight edge for a guide, install truss rod and truss rod cover filet, cut to top profile, carve heel, volute, and neck profile by hand. This is how I do it, but there are many other techniques.

Use Titebond Original for everything. Make sure you are gluing up at 40-45% RH.

I'm going to start a thread about this build in the Doc-U-Build forum. See you there.