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Headstock Binding...
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Author:  sdsollod [ Fri May 04, 2012 12:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Headstock Binding...

I'm sure there are a number of way to bind a headstock... I think it would be difficult with my router binding jig... Is a gramil the way to go? I'm concerned about the portion that is close to the nut. How do you cut your binding channel and how do you transition to the nut?

Author:  Marcus [ Fri May 04, 2012 12:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Headstock Binding...

I use my binding bit in my router table and just cut the channel with the headstock face-down.

The channels are only cut as deep as the headstock plate, which (in my case) consequently is the same depth of the nut

Image

Image

edit: Although take that with a grain of salt. This is my first headstock binding job. However, this is how i understand many people do it.

Author:  sdsollod [ Fri May 04, 2012 1:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Headstock Binding...

Okay - so the depth of cut is the thickness of your headplate... that way, your cut comes right up to the where the nut would be... makes sense.

I have done it a similar way. I have traced the headstock - cut out a the headplate - used a "half pencil" and marked the thickness of the binding and purfling all the way around - cut and sanded to the line - glued the binding and purfling to the headplate - and then, glued the headplate to the the headstock. This has worked, but I'm looking for other ways to do it.

Some folks probably have their headstock binding the same depth as their fingerboard binding...

Author:  Darrel Friesen [ Fri May 04, 2012 1:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Headstock Binding...

I use the Stew Mac dremel attachment meant for arched instruments. It was barely adequate for whole instruments, but works well for headstocks.

Author:  Michael Smith [ Fri May 04, 2012 2:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Headstock Binding...

I make headstock templates from 1/4" plexiglass
I do my inlay on a piece of 1/4" MDF I have glued my base face plate material to
Put two spots of hot glue on the finished Inlay and plop down the plexiglass template on top.
Rough trim with band saw and finish trim with flush cut router bit.
Slip a butter knife under the plexiglass and remove (you can heat with hair dryer for easier removal)
Route inlay channel in exactly the same manner as I would the body binding and purfling.
Bind and sand flush with drum sander
Cut the mdf off with bandsaw then drum sand back side to desired thickness. I like .1 inches
Disk sand 15 degree angle at nut end.
Use actual nut I will use as spacer
Glue to mahogany head using plexiglass template as caul.
Rough trim with bandsaw and sander and finish flush with file and sanding block.

Sounds like a lot but for what I do this is the easiest method.

Author:  Kent Chasson [ Fri May 04, 2012 3:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Headstock Binding...

I make mine the same thickness as the headplate and bind it before gluing it to the headstock.

Author:  John Arnold [ Fri May 04, 2012 9:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Headstock Binding...

Quote:
I make mine the same thickness as the headplate and bind it before gluing it to the headstock.

I decided long ago that that was the best way.
I just cut the headplate smaller to allow for the binding thickness. The headplate is located on the headstock with two brads, installed where the tuning key holes will be drilled.

Author:  B. Howard [ Sat May 05, 2012 6:35 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Headstock Binding...

I use a dremel, stew mac base and one of their binding bits. The solid pilot on the bit glazes a stripe on the side but it is nothing a sharp scraper wont take care of quickly.

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