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| Plans for Collings style DS2H Slothead ? http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=35963 |
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| Author: | SixStringer [ Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Plans for Collings style DS2H Slothead ? |
Hi all, been lurking for a while- I am interested in trying to build a few of this style guitar, which is my favorite Collings guitar! I have plans for a standard Martin Dreadnought, but this has the bridge more in the middle, and I think plans would be a good idea. Anyone know what exactly to do to a standard dread plan, or are plans available for this style guitar? Thanks |
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| Author: | Heath Blair [ Fri Mar 30, 2012 6:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Plans for Collings style DS2H Slothead ? |
I won't pretend to know anything about collings guitars, but it appears to be slightly more sloped in the shoulders, if not a bit sexier all around than a standard Martin dread. It's certainly a 12 fret neck to body join though. That's why the bridge sits lower in the lower bout. Other than that, from a brief glance on my iPhone, I can't tell you anything else about it. There are slope shoulder dread plans out there though. Hope that helps a little. |
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| Author: | gozierdt [ Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Plans for Collings style DS2H Slothead ? |
because its a 12 fretter, the bridge moves down, and so the soundhole and X-brace will move down some as well, and maybe change the X intersection angle some. It's the nicest looking dread shape I've seen. |
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| Author: | SixStringer [ Sat Mar 31, 2012 11:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Plans for Collings style DS2H Slothead ? |
Ok, great, thanks I guess, you could just measure to the 12 fret, then roll it over and there is your saddle, then adjust the x bracing to the bridge area. So am I loosing 'boom' with this style guitar? I do want boom. |
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| Author: | John Arnold [ Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Plans for Collings style DS2H Slothead ? |
Quote: I guess, you could just measure to the 12 fret, then roll it over and there is your saddle, then adjust the x bracing to the bridge area. The Martin 12-fret body is longer. And if you stick to the original design, the fingerboard only has 19 frets, which places the soundhole further from the bridge. If John Hall can't help you, I have patterns from several of the original 12-fretters made from 1931 to 1934. Quote: So am I losing 'boom' with this style guitar? I do want boom. The longer body produces more bass, not less. |
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