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| Epoxied bridge removal.... http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=34994 |
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| Author: | Steve Saville [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 12:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Epoxied bridge removal.... |
There has been a lot of talk about how hard it would be to remove a bridge that had been epoxied on. I tried it yesterday. Because of all the talk here I was quite concerned about it. I used a 150 watt light and shielded the top from heat. After about 15 minutes of heat to about 170 F I was able to wedge a thin spatula in and remove the bridge without issue. It was very easy. One thing that might have made it easy was that it was a koa top. I think spruce or cedar would be a little bit more of a delicate operation. |
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| Author: | Billy T [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 2:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Epoxied bridge removal.... |
Nope! I removed one from a spruce laminate top with a steam iron ...came right off! |
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| Author: | Jay Lowe [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Epoxied bridge removal.... |
I've removed a few that were pretty easy also, but keep in mind that there a many, many types of epoxy on the market. While some of them may be great for these types of applications, a lot of them are not. Once you find yourself dealing with the wrong kind, you'll know.  Jay |
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| Author: | James Ringelspaugh [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Epoxied bridge removal.... |
Yeah, epoxy joints are about a bajillion times easier vs yellow glue joints |
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| Author: | Steve Saville [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Epoxied bridge removal.... |
Jay Lowe wrote: I......... While some of them may be great for these types of applications, a lot of them are not..... Which ones are not OK? How do you tell before using it. |
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| Author: | Kent Chasson [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Epoxied bridge removal.... |
Steve Saville wrote: Jay Lowe wrote: I......... While some of them may be great for these types of applications, a lot of them are not..... Which ones are not OK? How do you tell before using it. All the ones I've seen formulated for woodworking will release in the same range as titebond. There are a lot of specialized epoxies that are much more heat resistant. You can usually find specs at the manufacturers web site or with a call to their tech dept. |
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| Author: | Jay Lowe [ Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Epoxied bridge removal.... |
What Kent said. A lot of the time you can just read the fine print on the package, and heat resistance ratings are sometimes pretty prominent on the packaging. There are actually epoxies rated for patching iron cylinder heads and patching cracks in your concrete driveway. Over the years I've found a few guitars previously repaired with some of these. The only way I found to defeat it was chemically, and it wasn't fun. Jay Edit: These products are normally Methylene Chloride based. |
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| Author: | Shaw [ Thu Jan 19, 2012 1:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Epoxied bridge removal.... |
Hammer and chisel method works well...Mike |
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