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Be careful with the rf charles plan, the action with the radius of the braces on the plan is 5mm with the 18mm height sadle !
Michael Collins mentioned this and warned me about the high action in the Charle plan neck geometry. I have also found that the neck lengths on the Charle plan and Collins book differ by about 1/4". So, I am not doing any neck construction until I have finished the box and can measure the actual length to the bridge location. Thanks, rdpdo, for the link. I will take a good look -- good thing measurements aren't language sensitive.
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You could also attach a "floor" to the mold, held with screws only. In that way, it could be removed as need for access to one side or the other. (Of course, several screws and a mold floor are probably more hassle than a bar clamp.)
Thanks, Patrick. I did consider the floor but as you said the clamps were a lot quicker. I did glue as I went on previous molds and the results were better, but the whole mold was more substantial. Next time, glue as I go.
What you don't see is the tape on the back. The plates are "clamped" with masking tape. Even the tape accross the joint on top is hard to make out in this photo. I used the same caul, shaped like the top of the pliage box to shoot the joint and under the top as it is being glued seen here. All of this was done as described in Collins' book. Except that I did mark out brace locations and run the plates over the jointer before bending the pliage to get them close. Had I been able to glue the plates together immediately after bending the pliage, I may have gotten away without even shooting the joint with the hand plane. Gluing is a little tricky with the pliage but not too difficult. On the inside I taped the part of the top above the pliage tightly together. Then, folded the joint open to apply glue. The bottom part of the pliage "butterflied" open. Applied glue, carefully put the joint together, laid the below pliage section flat on the bench and tape-clamped it together. Flipped it and tape-clamped the above- and below- pliage joint portions. Then the caul on the bench (packing tape to avoid sticking) laid the top down, flexible caul over joint and the gobars to keep the joint frmm "popping" and keep it aligned. The flexible caul is a piece of 1/8" plexiglass - one side with packing tape, the other with PSA 220 grit sandpaper. With the tape it doesn't stick to the top, and the sandpaper gives the gobars something to hold onto. 