I've built 5 guitars with titebond 2, and all the jigs and workboards etc. I've had no troubles. Recently there was a thread that some builders said to use only 1. Never use titebond 2. So it spooked me. I've started my first electric build. An archtop type of a Gibson Byrdland. You know the saying, "why change something that works." So I did a little test for the heck of it. I took 2 pieces of mahogany. cut them into halves. So I have 4 pieces, 2 tops and 2 bottoms of very similar wood. I went threw all my spring clamps, 30 or so, and found 2 that I felt were close to the same end width closing pressure. I smeared Titebond 1(fresh bottle) on one set, smoothed it evenly with my finger, then put the other piece on top, and slid it around horizonally about 1/16" inch to get the glue meshed in. Then clamped. I did the same with test piece 2 with Titebond 2(about a year old bottle,1/4 left). I wrote a 1 on test 1 and 2 on 2. It's hard to see, sorry. I let them dry clamped for around 20 hours. I tried to bust them apart by hand to see how tought the glue was. I could'nt do it. So I took a pair of channel-locks and popped them apart. With the leverage, I did not notice much difference in the separation. The results: Titebond 1, the glueline split, no wood tear. Titebond 2, the wood tore away from 1 side of the wood. So now what. Is Titebond 2 stronger? Whenever I have to sand it, it really sucks. Maybe more tests. Here's some pictures. Jason
Especially if they get warmed up occasionally by playing outdoors on a sunny summer day.