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| True flat top on a classical http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=31207 |
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| Author: | oval soundhole [ Mon Feb 21, 2011 3:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | True flat top on a classical |
I have used a flat top on the steel string guitars I have built so far and I was wondering If I could do the same for the a classical top. I have one 20' dish I use for the back, but lack the funds and recourses to make/buy another one for the top. |
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| Author: | Alexandru Marian [ Mon Feb 21, 2011 3:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
Sure. Use a Hauser plan. |
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| Author: | Ti-Roux [ Mon Feb 21, 2011 3:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
You don't need a radius dish to create radii. What's your building method? Solera? |
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| Author: | oval soundhole [ Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
I don't have any work boards or jigs, other than my bench, a piece of plywood and the back dish |
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| Author: | Ti-Roux [ Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
Free hand? So you should go for a flat-top. |
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| Author: | Tony_in_NYC [ Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
For a radius clamping caul on the cheap, check this out: http://kennethmichaelguitars.com/contourcaulkitinstrction.html You will be able to clamp your radiused braces and when you are done, you will have a nicely contoured top. I have used that method and it works and at $1.25 for a pack of index cards, it is a heck of a lot cheaper than a radius dish. You can clamp the top on using rubber bands for another $2.00. Not everyone can afford a couple of radius dishes. Hope you work it out. |
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| Author: | oval soundhole [ Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
That won't help me, but thanks |
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| Author: | jfmckenna [ Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
Tony_in_NYC wrote: For a radius clamping caul on the cheap, check this out: http://kennethmichaelguitars.com/contourcaulkitinstrction.html You will be able to clamp your radiused braces and when you are done, you will have a nicely contoured top. I have used that method and it works and at $1.25 for a pack of index cards, it is a heck of a lot cheaper than a radius dish. You can clamp the top on using rubber bands for another $2.00. Not everyone can afford a couple of radius dishes. Hope you work it out. That's very interesting but this problem is easily solved by using a flexible slat as a clamping caul. I've been doing it like that for almost 20 years now. Hope I'm not missing something? --- As for flat top classical, I've never tried it before but after building my first true flat top steal string a few months back it sounds very interesting. Go for it! |
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| Author: | David LaPlante [ Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
Brian, simply sand a bit of radius into your braces (just the main two harmonic bars above and below the sound hole) and clamp them flat to your surface when gluing. They will spring back (albeit to a lesser dgree) and impart a slight arch to your top. A slight arch is desireable as completely flat tops tend to go concave. Slightly arched ones, most likely in the case of Hauser over time flatten out. |
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| Author: | Alexandru Marian [ Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
Another thing you can try is to brace it flat in very low humidity, say 30%. At over 40 it will get a belly. |
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| Author: | Steve Davis [ Wed Feb 23, 2011 10:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: True flat top on a classical |
At over 40 it will get a belly. Like the rest of us |
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