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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 8:56 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 6:21 pm
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First name: Eric
Last Name: Turney
City: Concord
State: NC
Zip/Postal Code: 28025
Country: us
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
What fret levelers does everyone have/prefer. Wood w/ stick it, the short or the long ones, the Al sanding beam, Ste macs new magnetic file holder thingy,or push some hardwood at an angle to the blade in the table saw to create the proper radi. Pro and newb opinions are equally important. I personally am price concious but other newbs may not be.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:17 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Napa, CA
I prefer a long, heavy and perfectly flat steel sanding beam...like a #7 plane sole with 220 sandpaper glued on.

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Napa, CA
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:22 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:36 am
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State: ON
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I use one of the diamond levellers (from SM) and follow that up with 400 grit sandpaper on a short radius block to ensure the radius on the frets stays the same as the board. I mark the tops of the frets with a marker before levelling and again before the 400 grit.

Josh

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:55 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:33 am
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First name: Brad
Last Name: Radtke
City: South Haven
State: Mi
Zip/Postal Code: 49090
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I use a steel strip precision ground and glued to a piece of wood for a handle. I then attach a strip of sandpaper to the metal. Works much like the stew mac aluminum tube, but is much cheaper. I haven had any problems with it.
Something like this
http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel/=ai2n57


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:22 pm 
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First name: Dennis
Last Name: Kincheloe
City: Kansas City
State: MO
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Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I haven't needed to level any frets yet, but if I do, I'll probably get one of the beams from this guy http://shop.ebay.com/md4stone/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:13 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
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A 2' aluminum level works for me. Been using it for 30 years. Stick some 400 grit on it and you are good to go. Stick 80 grit on the other side and level the fretboard.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:56 pm 
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Koa
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Location: United States
First name: Nelson
Last Name: Palen
B Radtke wrote:
I use a steel strip precision ground and glued to a piece of wood for a handle. I then attach a strip of sandpaper to the metal. Works much like the stew mac aluminum tube, but is much cheaper. I haven had any problems with it.
Something like this
http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel/=ai2n57


I bought one of these a while back but went with the premium reserve model which is flat within .0002" (two ten-thousandths). The standard models are "only" flat within .0015" (one and a half thousandths). I like the extra accuracy and also use it as a master straightedge in my shop. Even used it to flatten my 18" steel straighedge which was out about .0015". It's "deadnuts" now. Gotta love the quarts beam and it's reasonably priced for the precision.
Nelson


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:05 pm 
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First name: Tim
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City: Santa Cruz
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Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I use a piece of 3/4" aluminum angle, that I flat lapped on one side, with the stick on gold paper. It slides underneath the strings to level while the neck is under tension.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:00 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 6:16 am
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Same Nicholson 10" mill files that I've had for about 38 years.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:57 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Bucharest, Romania
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I use a 1200 grit waterstone, first well soaked and trued on a granite slab.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:49 am 
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Koa
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Location: Grover NC
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Country: USA
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Haans wrote:
A 2' aluminum level works for me. Been using it for 30 years. Stick some 400 grit on it and you are good to go. Stick 80 grit on the other side and level the fretboard.


You beat me to it. My level is several generations old, but you can get one in a pawn shop for a couple bucks.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:06 pm 
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Location: Canada
2.5x8 inch piece of 3/8 glass ... with 600/1200 grit papers

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:13 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 4:19 am
Posts: 1534
Location: United States
First name: Nelson
Last Name: Palen
Todd Stock wrote:
Howard Klepper wrote:
Same Nicholson 10" mill files that I've had for about 38 years.



Now that Nicholson has moved almost all production offshore, I'm seeing fewer and fewer of their files that are true. Other than trying to tear open the blister packs to check the tool for flat, there's always Simonds or Grobet...both of which seem to be better made than the Nicholsons. I've had some luck finding NOS Nicholsons at some of the old school hardware stores, but usually just the low volume stuff...auger files and other specialty stuff.


Todd, what would you consider flat when it comes to a file?
.001", .010".............? I would think that a file would change shape some during heat treating, but not sure of the process.
Thanks
Nelson


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:28 pm 
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First name: Gene
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City: Sebastopol
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95472
Country: USA
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Status: Amateur
I'm with Howard, I use an old 12" mill file. I've also used it to hand flatten
V8 engine heads and block surfaces when rebuilding engines. Almost as
good as a surface grinder...

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 3:49 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 9:37 am
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First name: Murray
Last Name: MacLeod
City: Edinburgh
Country: UK
woody b wrote:
Haans wrote:
A 2' aluminum level works for me. Been using it for 30 years. Stick some 400 grit on it and you are good to go. Stick 80 grit on the other side and level the fretboard.


You beat me to it. My level is several generations old, but you can get one in a pawn shop for a couple bucks.


+1

Those 2 buck pawn shop levels are renowned the length and breadth of the nation for their straightness and flatness.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:42 pm 
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Koa
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First name: duh
Last Name: Padma
City: Professional Sawdust Maker
Focus: Build
A 40 year old 14 inch mill file with the tang bent up so me can hold on to it.


blessings
duh Padma

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:20 am 
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Koa
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Location: United States
First name: Nelson
Last Name: Palen
the Padma wrote:
A 40 year old 14 inch mill file with the tang bent up so me can hold on to it.


blessings
duh Padma


Have you thought about entering that file in the Guiness Book of World Records?
"Worlds Most Experienced Fret File" laughing6-hehe
Nelson


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:46 pm 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:37 pm
Posts: 1740
Location: Virginia, USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Haans wrote:
A 2' aluminum level works for me. Been using it for 30 years. Stick some 400 grit on it and you are good to go. Stick 80 grit on the other side and level the fretboard.

This is what I use, except I cut it down to about a foot to make it easier to handle for some situations(actually 13". Didn't measure, just cut at about what I thought was 1 ft.).
One note if you try this. Make certain the level you choose is actually flat on the edges. Many modern levels made now have sides that are cupped, supposedly so they'll stand up if you lay them on their sides.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:48 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 3:18 pm
Posts: 785
Location: United States
Another 10" Nicholson mill file user here.

I don't know about whether the file is "dead flat," but the kind of tolerances you guys are talking about are far more precise than what is meaningful given the margin of error that comes from the post-levelling polishing, at least in my shop. And the results seem to be just fine.


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