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 Post subject: Help removing a bridge
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:54 pm 
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I have an old take in the shop for nut, saddle bridge reglue and setup.
I have tried the stewmac iron heated for 60 mins at 200* and the bridge won't moving ideas?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Lance,
I route my bridges off with a sled and a router. Take it almost all the way and chisel off the remainder (ofter a few thou).
There is, unless you want to save the bridge.... duh

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:12 pm 
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How important is it to save the bridge? At some point, the risk of separating the center seam, ruining the finish, or doing other heat damage makes it reasonable to rout the old bridge off and make a new one. Or rout most of it off and then apply heat.

Good luck.

edit: Looks like Peter beat me to it.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:42 pm 
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LanceK wrote:
I have an old take in the shop...



Do you mean Takamine? If so, check for bolts before you route (if you plan on routing it off) as I think they bolt down there bridges too, atleast my 1991 EN-10 has the bridge bolted on.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 6:47 am 
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I had always used heat to remove bridges until John Hall showed me how to remove one by tapping around the edge with a chisel. John can explain the process better, and may even have a video. I wonder if there's any way to find out what kind of adhesive was used?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:02 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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woody b wrote:
I had always used heat to remove bridges until John Hall showed me how to remove one by tapping around the edge with a chisel. John can explain the process better, and may even have a video. I wonder if there's any way to find out what kind of adhesive was used?

That's the way I do it too. I'll use heat in some cases but mostly I knock them off.

---

60 minutes of heat seems like an awful lot but I don't know that technique. I use a heat lamp and and make a cardboard tin foil template to protect the top.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:17 pm 
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Lance: Concur with JF and the heat lamp with the cardboard tinfoil shield.It gives a more even heat. Good luck.
Tom

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:57 pm 
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Rod True wrote:
LanceK wrote:
I have an old take in the shop...



Do you mean Takamine? If so, check for bolts before you route (if you plan on routing it off) as I think they bolt down there bridges too, atleast my 1991 EN-10 has the bridge bolted on.

+1 for this. My experience with Taks says watch for bridge bolts as well.

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