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Cutting binding channels
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Author:  JoeUlman [ Wed Sep 22, 2010 6:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Cutting binding channels

If the binding is a bit taller than the purflings, (0.27” vs. 0.25”) can I cut the binding channel to match the purfling and plane the excess .02” off the binding after glue-up?

Attachment:
binding detail.jpg


Also, do I make any thickness allowance for the glue layers, e.g., between the sandwiched binding and purflings, when calculating the rabbet thickness? Thanks.

Joe

Author:  Terry Stowell [ Wed Sep 22, 2010 6:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

#1 yes you can, it's easier.

#2 You need to be aware and accommodate for swelling with wood glues. Test fit on scrap, make notes. Modify your depth if necessary. It's a good idea to leave the bindings slightly proud, they're easier to scrape flush than to scrape the top, back, or sides down to the binding. Test on scrap first (make a nicely bound wooden jewelry box) :)

Author:  JoeUlman [ Wed Sep 22, 2010 6:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

Thanks Terry.

Joe

Author:  John A [ Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

I am looking at the picture above - doesn't the binding channel need to be stepped ? or can it also be cut like this ? It looks easier to cut this way.

Author:  Antonio [ Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

@John. On my first and now on #2 I have done with the step for the purfling. I am considering doing like this on the next.
For the binding I have chosen 2 mm padouk but I think next time I will chose 1mm; much easier to bend and if needed one can always add another thin veneer on the inside .

Author:  Andy Birko [ Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:09 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

Terry Stowell wrote:
It's a good idea to leave the bindings slightly proud, they're easier to scrape flush than to scrape the top, back, or sides down to the binding. Test on scrap first (make a nicely bound wooden jewelry box) :)


While I agree its a good idea to leave them pround on top, there's a lot of guys who scrape the sides down to the bindings - only a few thou though.

The issue is that if you scraspe the bindings, it's really easy to get bindings that are not even in thickness and it's pretty obvious.


To the op, typically the purflings aren't the full depth like the binding. The binding and purfling channel is usually L shaped.

Author:  Kevin Smith [ Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

If you are using full-height purfling lines, you should be okay. If using the shallow purfling lines you'd have to make sure that the tape or whatever pushed down on the purfling. The taller binding may in some instances create an angle that would cause the clamping force to miss hitting the purfling. One way around this is to do purfling first and then glue the binding. But that's a lot of tape.

Author:  Alain Moisan [ Thu Sep 23, 2010 1:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

John A wrote:
I am looking at the picture above - doesn't the binding channel need to be stepped ? or can it also be cut like this ? It looks easier to cut this way.


I've been doing it like in the picture for over 40 guitars now with no issues yet.

Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding channels

Andy Birko wrote:

While I agree its a good idea to leave them proud on top, there's a lot of guys who scrape the sides down to the bindings - only a few thou though.

The issue is that if you scrape the bindings, it's really easy to get bindings that are not even in thickness and it's pretty obvious.


[:Y:] [:Y:] [:Y:]
Been there, done that- now I bring the sides down to the bindings if necessary.

Cheers
John

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