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| Removing a glued Martin long saddle http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=28864 |
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| Author: | Sondre [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
Hi, I am having a little trouble removing the saddle on a recent HD-28v. I tried a little with a heat gun, but I am not sure how much heat the glue joint between the bridge and the top can handle. Also, the saddle material appears to turn soft when heated. Any tips on how to approach this? How do you do it? Thanks, Sondre |
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| Author: | bluescreek [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
mix about 1/2 and 1/2 water and white vinegar. Apply a few drops to the saddle and keep it moist , after about 5 minutes see if it starts to loosen. sometimes it can take a while. once you get it out allow 24 hrs to dry |
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| Author: | woody b [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
I use cardboard and aluminum foil shields to protect the top, then heat it with a heat lamp. I wouldn't use a heat gun. I suspect you could actually melt the finish. Heating the saddle with a soldering gun might work, but you may damage the saddle. Why are you removing it? If you're just adjusting the action or intonation I'd do that from the top of the saddle, with it installed. |
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| Author: | Sondre [ Wed Sep 01, 2010 4:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
John, thank you, I will try that! Woody, the saddle is too low, so it needs to be replaced. Thanks, Sondre |
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| Author: | woody b [ Wed Sep 01, 2010 5:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
How old is it? I believe Martin has used CA to glue them in for the past several years. Would vinegar do anything with CA? Anyway, since you'll be replacing the saddle I'd just heat it with a soldering iron. |
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| Author: | Sondre [ Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
I checked the serial number, and it appears to be a 2000 model. Sondre |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
Heat probably won't help. You may have to knock it down to the wood, and saw straight a kerf along the center of saddle and pry it out in pieces. Make sure you pry inwards, taking care not to chip away any wood, and use a sharp chisel. |
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| Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
I've removed saddles glued with CA, HHG and TB1 with a soldering iron, going back and forth through the length of the saddle, and slowly prying it loose with pliers. It takes about 10 minutes. Like Woody says, if that doesn't work, a heat lamp and protective shields on the guitar top will do it. The heat lamp will heat the bridge as much as the saddle though. A heat gun is an absolute no-no. |
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| Author: | BruceHerrmann [ Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing a glued Martin long saddle |
Agree with the soldering iron technique, it's the only one that's worked for me. Martin used to put some of those in there really tight and used CA as well. Later ones are not a problem. I use a flattened pair of nippers, much like I use for removing frets and a lot of patience. It just can't be rushed. Protect the top, apply heat across the saddle using the iron and apply pressure gently right at the base of the saddle next to the bridge. It won't happen fast but it's your best chance at removing the really stubborn ones. I have a very small Dental chisel that's the exact size of the slot and it finishes the job of removing the glue and traces of the old saddle material. A heat lamp, for me, is a last resort, just hate the heat that's applied to that bridge and the glue under it..... |
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