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heel end block
http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=28299		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  segovia [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:49 pm ]
Post subject:  heel end block
This is my material for the heel end block as supplied through my supplier. It is 2 3/4 * 3 * 4 3/4

If I stand it on it's end it will just need shortening, however I think the grain will be running in the wrong direction. If I turn it on ist side it is not deep enough to cover the top and bottom of the rims ?

Any suggestions will be gratefully received

John
Author:  DennisK [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
That sounds more like dimensions for a neck heel block to me. The one at the butt end of the guitar is usually called the tail block, and is more like 5 x 3 x 3/4.

So... get another lump of wood, and glue that one to the neck :)
Author:  Alexandru Marian [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
If it is too short, I would just glue a matching grain piece and go on with it. But all my end blocks are made from 2,3 or 4 pieces, neck processing offcuts. Don't tell anyone :)
Author:  segovia [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
Sorry - I did mean neck /heel block.

J
Author:  Alexandru Marian [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
Is that Spanish cedar and you are trying to build a classical? If so, it is about the dimensions and it should be glued to the neck shaft with the same exact grain orientation.
Author:  segovia [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
Alexandru Marian wrote:
Is that Spanish cedar and you are trying to build a classical? If so, it is about the dimensions and it should be glued to the neck shaft with the same exact grain orientation.


Hi, Its Mahogany and it is for a SS OM style guitar with a dovetail joint.

J
Author:  DennisK [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
Hmm, that sounds like plenty to me. Aren't most OM shapes 3.5 or less at the neck? Once it's glued to the neck blank, that should be plenty even on the shortest side of that block.

And you can get another 1/16 to 1/8 from a heel cap. Or even 1/4 if you wrap the binding around the heel, to cover the seam of adding a thicker piece of wood to the bottom :)
Author:  Tom West [ Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
John: I may be taking this wrong but I think you have to glue a neck to this block. That will change the height.
Tom
Author:  segovia [ Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
westca wrote:
John: I may be taking this wrong but I think you have to glue a neck to this block. That will change the height.
Tom


This did occur to me as it is the right size, however I have enough material on my neck blank to stack a heel and nothing else that looks like a neck block. Maybe I should check with the supplier. I ordered it about 7 months ago and never got to use it until now.

J
Author:  segovia [ Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:51 am ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
Todd Stock wrote:
You need a 1-1/2" deep x 3-1/2" x 2-7/8" (or wider) block with face grain running in the 2-7/8" direction. Further, you should not laminate a neck block if the joint will be a dovetail. I also would not run the grain vertically, as the supplied block suggests.


I have emailed my supplier it is possible that this is for the neck blank and they forgot to add a heel block

Thanks

John
Author:  segovia [ Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:22 am ]
Post subject:  Re: heel end block
I have spoken to my supplier and he said this is a normal block for heel end block, the grain runs from top to bottom i:e the back and top is eventually glued to the end grain.

The heel block in this post verify's this

viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=25931

What is the consensus opinion on which way the grain should run for these blocks ?


J
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