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tail and heel block dimensions
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Author:  segovia [ Mon May 31, 2010 2:56 pm ]
Post subject:  tail and heel block dimensions

Hi

I am not clear if I need to leave 1/32 above the sides before gluing to allow for sanding to the kerf lining?

Bill Cory's book suggest leaving 1/32 on the tail and heel blocks but then goes on to say leave the heel block flush with the table when gluing.

John

Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Mon May 31, 2010 3:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: tail and heel block dimensions

John-
I think that suggestion arises from the fact that the blocks 'angle up' towards the center of the guitar - ie are not at 90deg to the sides if you have arching on the top/back. Rather than sand the sides 'down' all around, it's quicker to leave the blocks a bit proud. In either case, it's a quick job with a sharp block plane.
Be sure to double-check on your body depth measurements- it's quite easy to get the overall depth too great if you don't take the top and back plate thicknesses into account, or start leaving 'a bit extra' at each step.

Cheers
John

Author:  TonyKarol [ Mon May 31, 2010 4:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: tail and heel block dimensions

I dont leave anything proud .. but I do mine a little differently than most I figure. I dont taper the sides before bending though either. So after bending, I cut the two blocks to thr final size that I am looking for in the finished guitar .. bear with me here .... I then glue in my blocks, usually having overhang at both the neck and tail. Noq, upside down in the bowl(s), I transfer the bowl contour to the sides, then plane the excess off. Now bowl grind (drive the bus) with a sandpaper covered bowl. This will take some height off both the neck and tail block. But .... it goes back on when you add the top and back, and presto, you are pretty much to the desired final thickenesses at the blocks. Works for me ....

Author:  Tom West [ Mon May 31, 2010 4:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: tail and heel block dimensions

There is at least two of us,Tony...!!!

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