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Multiscale question http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=27626 |
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Author: | Edward Taylor [ Sun May 30, 2010 6:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | Multiscale question |
On my original fretboard I laid out the multiscale without the taper on the board, I botched that fretboard and when transferring the positions over on to this tapered board, I realized that the positions were quite different. With straight frets I guess this has no bearing because everything is perpendicular, but with the multiscale do you want the positions in relation to the taper or parallel to the center line? My guess would be taper because the strings follow that as well? Thanks |
Author: | Kent Chasson [ Sun May 30, 2010 6:38 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
I'm not 100% sure I understand your question but here's how I would look at it. If your layout is correct, just imagine the board is not tapered and lay out accordingly (which should be based on the center line). Most multiscales have one fret perpendicular to the center line and that should still be the case. |
Author: | DennisK [ Sun May 30, 2010 6:56 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Here's what I would do. First, draw lines along the board where the 1st and 6th strings will be. Then calculate the fret positions for the 1st string and mark them along the 1st string line. Do the same for the 6th string fret positions on the 6th string line. Then connect the dots to cut the fret slots. |
Author: | Edward Taylor [ Sun May 30, 2010 7:35 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Heres my problem, which line to mark the positions on and "connect the dots". |
Author: | Howard Klepper [ Sun May 30, 2010 8:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Multiscale fret positions should be laid out after tapering the board. |
Author: | DennisK [ Sun May 30, 2010 9:24 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Yeah, the tapered edge positions should be about right. You don't necessarily have to physically taper first, just mark where the edges will be, to use as reference when marking the fret positions. The actual strings are inward a bit from the edges, so if you mark the approximate final string lines and then set the fret positions there, it would be even more exact to your defined low and high scale lengths. The difference is tiny though, so yeah, you might as well just use the tapered board edges as the reference lines. |
Author: | Edward Taylor [ Sun May 30, 2010 9:46 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Yeah, that would be the most accurate I suppose. Its half laid out already though and being the pain that it is, I will just finish it that way. Good thing I botched that first fretboard after all or I never would of realized you mark after the taper. Thanks |
Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon May 31, 2010 7:12 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Here is what i use now .. way easier than marking out by hand .... http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/index.php - it takes everything into consideration when laying out the FB .. string offset on the FB and nut and saddle spacing (this defines your taper), where is the stright fret (as a precentage, it doesnt have to be on a fret) and teh two scales. It then prints for you to scale (it was close enough for me that its better than doing ti by hand) What I do is tell it that I am making a left hand fingerboard, then take the print out and glue it to the back of the fretboard, and slot face down on the TS. If you are using a saw and mitre box, then layout as a right hander. |
Author: | Edward Taylor [ Mon May 31, 2010 7:58 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Wow what a time saver. The printer doesn't mess with the scale too much? Do you just line the two pages up as best you can? |
Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon May 31, 2010 10:35 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Like I said .. I couldnt measure it any better myself .... my printer makes it that good ... |
Author: | Robert Renick [ Mon May 31, 2010 11:01 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
I just used the fretfinder site to lay out the multi scale on my first guitar, could not have been easier, but I still needed to get compensation info from other sources. It has lines to help line up the two pages and centerlines. Rob |
Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon May 31, 2010 11:12 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
I use a 3/16 saddle and comp this way ... set the high E or whatever its tuned to, to be dead on the scale length just into the saddle slot at that string location. Set the Lowest string to be about 4mm (plus the true scale length) at the centre of the slot at its string location ... you will have plenty of room to shape the saddle to get the comp dialed in from there. |
Author: | Howard Klepper [ Mon May 31, 2010 11:21 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
The question then becomes whether the program adjusted the scales according to the fretboard taper. The output of a computer is no better than the programming that went in. It does ask for nut and bridge spacing and strings set-in from the edges at the nut, so that looks good. Very sophisticated. I wouldn't trust a printer to make an accurate paper template for fretting. I've been told by people who know more than me about it that even high end printers are not that accurate, stretch the paper, etc. So do you check all the measurements before using the printout? Then even if it were perfect, you still have to put your saw on the line and make a clean, vertical cut. What assures perfect accuracy in doing that? |
Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon May 31, 2010 11:35 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
Well .. agreed Howard .. but the 5 or 6 I have made this way are just fine .... you can always quickly measure it out for yourself after it prints. |
Author: | Howard Klepper [ Mon May 31, 2010 11:36 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Multiscale question |
I just edited while you were posting, Tony. |
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