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Radius ect
http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=26889		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Rookie [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 6:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Radius ect
What is the rule of thumb for Top and Back raduis measurements, exsample 16" sounboard Top what radiuses can you use
also same goes with the back can someone post all formulars or measurements for all different size guitars.?????

With the sides of acoustics and classicals what are the depths that can be used and does it have an effect on sound ect, as I see they vary a fair bit?????

Last question, do you builders french polish or laquer your fret boards or just leave natural what are the advantages and dis-advantages ?????

Many Thanks..

Rookie
Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 6:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radius ect
Shane-
Welcome to OLF!
I don't know if you are building your first guitar or 40th- sorry if my assumption that you are a beginning builder is wrong. You may have built more than me.... ;)

About fingerboards- I think the most common practice is to just oil fingerboards, unless the FB is something like a Fender maple FB- they get looking pretty 'grungy' in a hurry without some kind of finish. Lacquer is the usual choice.

As far as your other questions- I've not seen any 'hard and fast' rules - probably best to just stick to one plan or book method for an early guitar. The top radius has to work with the neck geometry and bridge to get a playable guitar. (15' back and 25-28' top are common numbers for SS guitars).

Cheers
John
Author:  bluescreek [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radius ect
most classical's will use a flat fretboard. I am not sure on the tops , Steel strings , the Martin standard is 20 on the dreds for the back the top uses a 1 1/2 degree neck angle and a 28 foot radius works well for that . Check out this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYHPCeVRUA4 this will show you what and how.
A 2 degree neck angle you can use a 25 foot. I use all 28 and 15 personally. The radius is more for strength and allowance of movement in RH changes.
Author:  Rookie [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 4:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Radius ect
JohnAbercrombie wrote:
Shane-
Welcome to OLF!
I don't know if you are building your first guitar or 40th- sorry if my assumption that you are a beginning builder is wrong. You may have built more than me.... ;)

About fingerboards- I think the most common practice is to just oil fingerboards, unless the FB is something like a Fender maple FB- they get looking pretty 'grungy' in a hurry without some kind of finish. Lacquer is the usual choice.

As far as your other questions- I've not seen any 'hard and fast' rules - probably best to just stick to one plan or book method for an early guitar. The top radius has to work with the neck geometry and bridge to get a playable guitar. (15' back and 25-28' top are common numbers for SS guitars).

Cheers
John


John thanks for your prompt reply and advice, yes Im a beginer and dont take offence, this is my 3rd build, like to build about 4 SS per year and would like to update my knowledge base.
Author:  Rookie [ Thu Apr 08, 2010 4:16 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Radius ect
bluescreek wrote:
most classical's will use a flat fretboard. I am not sure on the tops , Steel strings , the Martin standard is 20 on the dreds for the back the top uses a 1 1/2 degree neck angle and a 28 foot radius works well for that . Check out this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYHPCeVRUA4 this will show you what and how.
A 2 degree neck angle you can use a 25 foot. I use all 28 and 15 personally. The radius is more for strength and allowance of movement in RH changes.


Thanks for your time and advice, I will take a look at youtube
Author:  Stuart Gort [ Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:35 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Radius ect
It's hard to qualify me as a "builder" but I did just finish a month long experiement testing various finishes on maple fretboards. The best results occurred with wipe on finishes.....Tru-oil and Minwax gloss urethane both achieved a very nice, smooth sealed surface. Both are harder than shellac. The Minwax gloss is very easy to apply and can be flattened with 0000 steel wool or highly polished with compound.

Minwax wipe-on has my vote so far with maple. It's easy and durable. I haven't tried it on darker woods but this is my clear choice for lighter woods.
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