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| Author: | Chuck Dubman [ Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Cherry fretboard |
American black cherry, not Brazillian. Frets are easy to pull after being driven into the recommended 0.023" slots. Would an 0.020" slot hold better? |
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| Author: | jfmckenna [ Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
A wider slot with an appropriately bended fret glued in may be the answer too. Though it would help if you elaborate. |
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| Author: | David Malicky [ Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
I've done a number of cherry fretboards with StewMac 0.023" wire. An 0.023" blade has worked well for me if cut cleanly. I've also tried an 0.020" blade, which was tight but they went in. |
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| Author: | Chuck Dubman [ Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
jfmckenna wrote: A wider slot with an appropriately bended fret glued in may be the answer too. Though it would help if you elaborate. Trying to learn traditional methods. Narrow slot, no glue. If nothing else works, I'll use a chisel and epoxy. Probably won't use cherry next time. Setting up for fretting now. It's easy enough to hone back the saw's teeth to narrow the kerf for tighter frets, not so easy to widen it -- 18 tpi dovetail saw, dang near went blind trying to sharpen it with a jeweler's file. Needs a delicate touch with a saw set. |
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| Author: | Chuck Dubman [ Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
Chuck Dubman wrote: jfmckenna wrote: 18 tpi dovetail saw, dang near went blind trying to sharpen it with a jeweler's file. Needs a delicate touch with a saw set. I don't think I said "dang." |
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| Author: | Chuck Dubman [ Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
david82282 wrote: I've done a number of cherry fretboards with StewMac 0.023" wire. An 0.023" blade has worked well for me if cut cleanly. I've also tried an 0.020" blade, which was tight but they went in. What type cherry? |
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| Author: | David Malicky [ Tue Mar 09, 2010 2:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
Chuck Dubman wrote: What type cherry? American Black. Maybe the saw is cutting wider than 0.023? Could a tooth be askew, or have a burr? |
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| Author: | truckjohn [ Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
Cherry may not be the best wood from a Durability standpoint, but it shouldn't have any trouble with frets staying put if the Kerf is a little smaller than your fret tang notches. It could just be a tolerance stackup problem -- meaning you got fretwire that is near "Minimum" spec and a saw blade that is running near "Maximum" spec -- so the fret tang is a bit looser than you would like..... We aren't talking about much -- They both probably have a normal spec range of +/- 0.005" -- but that is enough to make a tight fit into a loose fit and vice versa. If your kerf is a bit too wide or the tang is a bit too small -- you can always ding the fret tang in a bunch of places to make it a bit wider.... A blunt, heavy knife edge tool like a cold chisel or cleaver would do the trick.... All you need to do is upset the tang a bit, not chop it in half -- so a light touch is your friend. Glue works too. Thanks John |
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| Author: | Chuck Dubman [ Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
david82282 wrote: Chuck Dubman wrote: What type cherry? American Black. Maybe the saw is cutting wider than 0.023? Could a tooth be askew, or have a burr? Feeler gauge says 0.023. Vernier calipers say the feeler gauge is telling the truth. Any burred or bent tooth would have been honed back by the diamond plate I used after filing the teeth. |
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| Author: | Chuck Dubman [ Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cherry fretboard |
truckjohn wrote: Cherry may not be the best wood from a Durability standpoint, but it shouldn't have any trouble with frets staying put if the Kerf is a little smaller than your fret tang notches.
Irv Sloane said you need to test a fretting saw to ensure that frets hold in a given species of fingerboard wood, that softer woods need a narrower kerf. It's no big deal for me to lap off some of the set, but a pain to rewiden it if I go too narrow. It could just be a tolerance stackup problem -- meaning you got fretwire that is near "Minimum" spec and a saw blade that is running near "Maximum" spec -- so the fret tang is a bit looser than you would like..... We aren't talking about much -- They both probably have a normal spec range of +/- 0.005" -- but that is enough to make a tight fit into a loose fit and vice versa. If your kerf is a bit too wide or the tang is a bit too small -- you can always ding the fret tang in a bunch of places to make it a bit wider.... A blunt, heavy knife edge tool like a cold chisel or cleaver would do the trick.... Maybe a scraper burnisher? All you need to do is upset the tang a bit, not chop it in half -- so a light touch is your friend. Glue works too. Thanks John |
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