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| Glueing Tops & backs Question #2 http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=25799 |
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| Author: | WudWerkr [ Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Glueing Tops & backs Question #2 |
As I mentioned I always cut my tops and backs 1/4" and samded them . I ALSO made several tops or backs at once and stickered them till I wanted to use one . Keep In Mind I was Doing mando's As For Thinner Tops and backs , almost at finish thickness , Is glueing them and stickering them till needed good idea? Should they be braced right away ? Or should they remain unglued untill use is needed ? |
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| Author: | Hesh [ Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glueing Tops & backs Question #2 |
James bro I see no benefit to joining plates well in advance of bracing them. One of the myths that was perpetuated on the forum in the past was that a braced top, or back..., needs to be glued to the completed rim at once. Where this is true is if your own shop is not strictly RH controlled. If your humidity swings the braced tops and backs will change radius with RH changes. If you do strictly control your shop RH at all times braced tops and backs can hang around for a long time with no problems. |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glueing Tops & backs Question #2 |
I would say that I also see no harm in joining them in advance (given RH control). Almost every set I buy is already joined and rough thicknessed, and some languish for years and years without being used, and will continue to do so. Whenever I do a spec build I root through my big ole Rubbermaid container to search me prettie's and everything is fine, just fine. I've also had braced tops and backs lying about for long lengths of time, when I start a spec build and then get interrupted with commissions. You do have to be a bit more careful if they're thicknessed cause you lose some of you idiot ding protection. Cheers |
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