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| Glueing tops and backs http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=25777 |
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| Author: | WudWerkr [ Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | Glueing tops and backs |
I have always made my tops and backs approx 1/4" thick and glued then sanded to thickness . Recently I have been buying some tops and backs from our estemed friends here that are basically at finish thickness or close. How do you glue them together "setup" to keep them flush and straight . Is the center strip done at same time to help that ?  REALLY dont wanna mess up these "higher price " materialsWould appreciate some guidance here , pics would be nice ! thanks in advance |
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| Author: | Mike Lindstrom [ Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glueing tops and backs |
Robbie O covers it in his youtube video on shooting boards. http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=OBr ... xOJAjdGZUY Works great if your boards are still rectangular and can be cut to the wedge. Draw your body outline before you cut the wedge. Also you need to weight down the plates so they don't pop up on you. Make sure you release the tension BEFORE you remove the weights. If you're using hot hide glue, I think has a tutorial just using tape to clamp it. Here's Chris Paulick's version. viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=22533 Mike |
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| Author: | WudWerkr [ Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glueing tops and backs |
Thanks guys those are excellent tutorials , maybe a subforum that covers nothing but video turorials like this . I will have shooting board and clamping wedge board by end of weekend ![[:Y:]](./images/smilies/smiley20.gif "Thumbs Up")
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| Author: | Edward Taylor [ Sat Jan 30, 2010 1:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glueing tops and backs |
If you find you cant get a consistent edge with a plane on the shooting board, a level with a machined edge with sandpaper stuck on works real well also. I bought a 24" fatmax extreme for this. |
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| Author: | truckjohn [ Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glueing tops and backs |
1/4" thick is massively thick... I don't have a sander, so I end up hand planing... and thinning it out has taken me about a whole day if I have to start with 1/4" thick stock! I like to start with plates in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range, joint and glue... then the thinning operation is so much easier... Getting the "Up/Down" alignment is a challenge. Notice the board with tapered wedges on Todd's gluing setup -- It helps hold the center of the plates flat against the board while gluing.... I have done something similar, but far more crude -- I just clamp a big ole board across each plate about 1/4" away from the joint itself (To keep it from getting glued!) Some have planed a curve into this board so that the middle is about 1/8" proud... Clamping down the edges springs the board to hold the middle down nicely. Anyway, here is a pic of my crude setup.... This was last Christmas before I had a Basement! (Yes, I glued up my top on a maple cutting board!) Attachment: Ditson build 010.jpg Thanks John |
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| Author: | WudWerkr [ Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glueing tops and backs |
John , that looks like the set up a guy would have used VERY successfully in 1800's so my friend , if it works I wouldnt knock it !! ps . I have several very crude set ups as well lololol |
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