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| Ukulele Bridge? http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=25117 |
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| Author: | Neil Gardiner [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | Ukulele Bridge? |
I am building a ukulele to try something other than flattops. Got the Concert Uke plan from LMI. Just wondered how any of you people glue on the bridge? I have bridge clamps that I use on guitars but they won't fit in the sound hole. Thanks Neil |
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| Author: | Edward Taylor [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
Neil, I imagine you could make a variation on the fox bridge clamp. Here is a link to them on LMI in case you have not seen one. http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproduc ... dge+Clamps |
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| Author: | Neil Gardiner [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
Edward I don't think that will work because it is a pinless bridge. |
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| Author: | Edward Taylor [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
I think your only option then is a vacuum clamp? |
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| Author: | LuthierSupplier [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
Neil Gardiner wrote: I am building a ukulele to try something other than flattops. Got the Concert Uke plan from LMI. Just wondered how any of you people glue on the bridge? I have bridge clamps that I use on guitars but they won't fit in the sound hole. Thanks Neil Neil, I drilled 2 tiny 1/16" holes in the saddle slot, and used the actual drills to keep the bridge in position while I just used 2 cam clamps to clamp. I put a board across the back to protect it, and if you can wedge a small piece of wood on the inside under the bridge, that will help. But just make sure you have a perfect joint, then you won't need much clamping pressure. Mine's been strung up for 8 months using titebond and it is still holding strong. |
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| Author: | Steve Brown [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
I just did a repair on a friends Taro patch Uke that involved re glueing the bridge. I used carpet tape to hold a caul under the bridge plate and used a single metal 4" C clamp with caul that I made to go over the bridge. That caul has a little relief in the center to even out the clamping pressure. I found working through that small hole quite a task. I had to make a tool out of a long screwdriver to get the inside caul off. That involved using a torch to heat and bend it into an offset with a hook on the end. It worked very well. Steve Brown |
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| Author: | Aaron O [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
Deep C-clamps. I think mine are 3", and I've used three in the past, until I welded up one of these (and used old c-clamps, small ones, for the ends) www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tool ... _Caul.html Now I use just one, with a caul epoxied onto the bottom, so it can reach over (or should I say under) the braces. I know a guy that uses his go-bar, but, he installs a pinless bridge, so the strings pull from under the patch. Some guys actually screw theirs in, and cover the screws with MOP dots. |
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| Author: | unkabob [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 2:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
I use two wooden paint stirrer sticks. One over the bridge and one under the ukulele with two C clamps at either end. A little flex provides enough force. I use titebond. One detail, my strings run through the soundboard (Hana Lima style) and two of these holes are drilled with brads to pin the bridge in place. Bob |
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| Author: | mtracz [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ukulele Bridge? |
Here is what I did. I used a Harbor Freight deep throat clamp and rigged up a clamping caul with a coupole eye bolts and scrap plywood. The bolts push down on a couple cork pads and there is a radiused caul with cutouts for the fan braces under the bridge patch. It was quick and I have used it a couple times since. Hope this helps.   Oh and I use a couple locating pins in the saddle slot so it doesn't slip. _Mike |
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