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Screw extractor question
http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=25104		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  GregG [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 12:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Screw extractor question
I had a tuning post screw break off in the headstock, any suggestions on how to get it out, what size extrctor to use and availability....does Home Depot or Lowes carry these small extractors? Any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Author:  Darrel Friesen [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 12:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
I've had success in the past by using a left handed drill bit in the drill press. Unplug the press and put some pressure on the screw with the bit, then turn the chuck by hand. The screw should back out. Others have used tubing with teeth cut in the end to core the screw out. You would then have to glue in a plug and match the wood and redrill. Drilling it out would be a challenge as the bit will tend to wander.

Others may have better suggestions.
Author:  GregG [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Thanks Darrel, I've not noticed a left handed drill bit before. Anyway, I got it out by using a .075 bit right down the middle of the .090 screw (that was a trick) then using a .090 bit to remove the last bits of the broken-off screw. Got lucky this time, whew!
Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 2:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Darrel Friesen wrote:
..... Others have used tubing with teeth cut in the end to core the screw out. You would then have to glue in a plug and match the wood and redrill. Drilling it out would be a challenge as the bit will tend to wander.

[Edit]:Greg-
Good work on the drilling! [:Y:]

I've used the 'teeth' in the end of tubing trick and it worked well. If you are just taking out one screw, you can use brass tubing- the teeth will last for one job- from a hobby shop (available in smaller sizes) or look around the house for something suitable. (ball point pen refill, etc etc)
The tube will 'follow' the broken screw.
I've never had much luck with drilling into small diameter fasteners.

Cheers
John
Author:  L. Presnall [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 3:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Why, WHY aren't there tuner screws that will actually go to depth without breaking or having the head stripped out? [headinwall] I still get a bit sweaty when it's time to put those stupid little things in! wow7-eyes
Author:  GregG [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Quote:
Why, WHY aren't there tuner screws that will actually go to depth without breaking or having the head stripped out? I still get a bit sweaty when it's time to put those stupid little things in!


I know, seems like those little rascals will strip/break if the threads have to go into more than .015" of wood. Of course that helped me drill it out because it was pretty cruddy metal.
Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
L. Presnall wrote:
Why, WHY aren't there tuner screws that will actually go to depth without breaking or having the head stripped out? [headinwall] I still get a bit sweaty when it's time to put those stupid little things in! wow7-eyes


I 'feel your pain'! [clap]
I always put in a small steel screw first, then follow with the (generally low quality) brass screw. Takes a few minutes more, but it's a lot less trouble than digging out a broken fragment.

Cheers
John
Author:  MRS [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 5:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Wax those screws (ivory soap bar works well) before installing and use the proper size drill bit. Maple has to be the wood that most people have this problems with. I also tend to believe from experience that if you drill holes and do not put a screw in for a day or so the hole shrinks ( or swells). I have had this happen where i drilled test fitted ok then removed and few days later holes were snugger. Maybe the fresh holes swell from moisture in the air. Anyone else ever notice this?...Mike
Author:  Terence Kennedy [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 5:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
I used a dental burr on a dremel freehand and did basically the same thing you did. Pretty much reamed it out without enlarging the hole that much. I built up a wall of tape around the hole to protect the finish if I slipped. I use soap now on the screws but I still get nervous too.
Terry
Author:  Link Van Cleave [ Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Quote:
I always put in a small steel screw first, then follow with the (generally low quality) brass screw.
[:Y:] [:Y:] [:Y:]

Even if the brass screw is high quality you risk breakage or at the least buggering up the head of the screw. Was taught to do this by Jim Krenov.
Link
Author:  L. Presnall [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:36 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Yeah, I do the soap and "almost" too big pilot drill...it's the heads made of clay that bug me the most...I don't often break one nowadays but it used to really vex me! The steel screw to cut the threads in the hole first sounds like a plan! [:Y:]
Author:  letseatpaste [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Stewmac or someone should make a tool similar to the strap button tap they have for cutting the threads for strap buttons.

Image
Author:  mateo4x4 [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:57 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
When doing home improvement stuff, I have used plumber's grease (prefer the pure silicon variety) to help with driving long screws (makes building a deck sooooo much easier!). It only takes a dab on the tip and have yet to see an issue with it coming loose or backing out. Should work ok for these screws as well, and silicon is pretty harmless stuff.

-Matthew
Author:  TonyKarol [ Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Screw extractor question
Silicone may be fine for building decks, but keep it the HECK away form anything you plan to put finish on ....or maybe have to refinish in the future. ..

i too use a large enough pilot to make the screws fo in easier .. almost the same size if tis hard maple. I tell my students all the time when installing tuners ... its way easier to get another screw if one falls out than it is to try and get out a broken one .. it doesnt need to be put in with a lot of torque.
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