I guess I should add if you trace with a micromarker as I mention you channel up to the line not into or on the line. Even with my jewler's loop my eyes have a hard time focusing solely on a scribed cut line. The micromarker just helps define the scribed line and helps relive the eye strain. I would love to find micro markers in white but the smallest white maker I can find is .7mm and that is too large. .25mm is ideal

Lots of great tips in the posts here. Thanks, folks.

Michael-
Do you have a link/source for the micromarkers? (I can't even seem to find white pencils any more, so even a 0.7mm white marker would be useful.)

Thanks
John

Thanks, Michael.
Very useful.
John
(dating myself - I finally ran out of my stock of white 'blueprint marking' pencils here a few years ago!)

My first idea would be to press the pieces into something like clay (there is probably a better material that doesn't shrink during the drying process). You can then use a "Pantograph"

http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=22878

But I guess some of the inlay artists around here can do it freehand as well

Christian

Wow... lots of great replies! As usual, MDP has all the great tools & markers. I thought about the pantograph, but Mike confirmed my fear about the Friendly Plastic and detail work. But...

How about this. Instead of embedding the shell in the FP, lay the shell on a flat surface and work the FP around it so it sort of encases it from the edges. This "template" will be as thin as the shell. Theoretically, one could build several layers.

Should be easier to remove shell from that.

Mike

I would love to find micro markers in white but the smallest white maker I can find is .7mm and that is too large. .25mm is ideal

You can do all of the above mentioned methods and surely they will work, but the easiest way is to get a good copy of the original, make copies for yourself, then literally glue the paper copy down exactly into position, and carefully route the pattern out from inside the copy. You get an exact layout, and an exact rout line, as long as the pearl was cut exact to the pattern to start.

Make sure there is glue fully and cleanly under the paper (some use 3M spray tack glue, I prefer model airplane cement) and make sure you use good paper and have sharp bits. You don't want the paper coming up during routing, but if it does, take it all off, and start over with the other copy. Mark off you line up position points in advance.

Start outside in, and only do the very outer edges, then you can take the paper off and do the insides easier. Don't push the router forward through the pattern, or drag it. Hop and pop it along like a sewing needle, making little holes. Then you will have a great outline.

Use the smallest bits you have to start.

The millionth Martin was done this way, and Larry is pretty much only doing things this way anymore for routing. I do it sometimes, but other times I like scribing. Sometimes I just trace with pencil, it works fine too. For something this fine with all those pieces, I would do the paper thing. Gluing down the pieces will get messy, and they will break if not very carefully removed. best to not have to scribe them either, they could break during scribing. This method removes all of those issues.

Oh- yes it takes a lot of time.
Ask Andy for a copy, if he rather not give it away, then it's a lot more work!


Craig Lavin