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Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=24277		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  sprouseod [ Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:42 am ]
Post subject:  Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
I am wondering is Bull's Eye (dewaxed) Shellac you get from Lowes is adequate for sealing the end grain on plates to prevent checking or do I need something else?

thanks
Richard
Author:  Haans [ Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
I have always rubbed canning wax on the endgrain.
Author:  Laurent Brondel [ Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:59 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
No need to use de-waxed shellac, actually the regular Zinsser is probably better to seal the end-grain.
Author:  Mark Groza [ Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:27 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
I don't know how well shellac would work on end grain.But this is one of the best ways to seal endgrain.You can get it at woodcraft stores and it is made for endgrain sealing. ;)
Author:  wbergman [ Thu Oct 22, 2009 11:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
I strongly recommend that you do not apply anything with wax. When the wood reaches the melting temperature of wax, the wax will flow into the wood and never come out. This will compromise glue joints and many finishes. And you will not really be aware of it but years down the road a joint may open. I ruined a lot of wood by using canning wax (parrafin) on the ends and storing the wood in the attic, which got hot. The wax flowed about six inches and soaked into the wood. The temperature attained was never hot enough to be intollerable by humans. What if you use wax and later decide to heat treat the wood? I am using interior latex paint now, but I am not sure if that is safe from penetrating the wood. Do not use oil base paint, because the solvent will carry color into the wood.
Author:  Haans [ Thu Oct 22, 2009 11:59 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
Perhaps I should add that mine is stored in the basement at 70 degrees and 45% humidity. If I ever wanted to stick it in the oven or hot car or attic (?) I would saw off a quarter inch...
Author:  Eric Reid [ Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:47 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Shellac for sealing endgrain on stored plates
wbergman wrote:
I strongly recommend that you do not apply anything with wax. When the wood reaches the melting temperature of wax, the wax will flow into the wood and never come out. This will compromise glue joints and many finishes. And you will not really be aware of it but years down the road a joint may open. I ruined a lot of wood by using canning wax (parrafin) on the ends and storing the wood in the attic, which got hot. The wax flowed about six inches and soaked into the wood. The temperature attained was never hot enough to be intollerable by humans. What if you use wax and later decide to heat treat the wood? I am using interior latex paint now, but I am not sure if that is safe from penetrating the wood. Do not use oil base paint, because the solvent will carry color into the wood.


Here are some figures on the moisture barrier effectiveness of various wood finishes (from U.S. Forest Products Laboratory "Wood Handbook #72"): Uncoated wood=0%, 2 coats interior latex paint=0%, 2 coats exterior latex paint=3%, 3 coats linseed oil=21%, 3 coats shellac=87%.
One other option I've heard good things about, and had good luck with myself is yellow PVA glue. I don't have any figures on it's properties as a moisture barrier, but I gather that PVA is also used as a moisture barrier in house construction.
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