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Hey,

Could any of you folks help me identify this old Gibson?
Thanks in advance,
jack

L-0 or L-1, about 28 to 30 is my guess. Not sure what the difference is between them, but it's very much like the one Robert Johnson is holding in one of his 2 pics. Good small body country blues guitars. I love the style and got plans from John Steele here who's built a few. I've never played one but it's on my build list. Unless of course that one needs a new home?

Joe

L-0 or L-1, about 28 to 30 is my guess. Not sure what the difference is between them, but it's very much like the one Robert Johnson is holding in one of his 2 pics. Good small body country blues guitars.

Joe

If there is an extra bridge pin hole in the bridge behind the others and it has a mahogany top it is a 1927 L0, in those days L0 was Mahogany and L1 was spruce. I have a good friend who has a 27 L0 and it is real cool sounding if you like acoustic blues or ragtime.

Fred

_________________
Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

many thanks Joe and Fred; The guitar belongs to a local music store and I have it for a possible repair.
Thanks again,
jack

Thanks Fred, I'd only seen them in pictures and often wondered what the difference was between the L0 and L1.
Should have just asked here!

Joe

Sorry for the double post above.

That's my favorite Gibson. What kind of bracing does it have?
Here's my humble version based on the L-1. Of course the slotted headstock isn't very Gibson, but I liked the neck. I've got another in the works with a sinker redwood top and walnut b/s.

Yes Jack, what bracing pattern does the one you're repairing have? Waist dimensions and scale length?

Very nice build Kevin!
What bracing pattern did you use, and what is your scale length and waist?

Thanks guys,
Joe

Good lookin' guitar Kevin; I like the slot head too!

Waist: 8 1/8th"
Lower bout: 13 7/8"
Scale length:24 1/4"
The guitar has two main braces ( seem to be about 1/4" wide)that start right up by the neck block, proceed just out side the soundhole, then on under just the tip ends of the bridge area then on to the rim.
It has a traverse brace just under the 19th fret and about 3/8ths" inch from the upper edge of the soundhole, which is about 3 3/8" in diameter.
There is another cross brace about 3/8" from the lower edge of the soundhole and still another , about 8" below the lower portion of the soundhole. The bridge plate continues under the two main braces and to the outer rim. All of the cross brace/main brace intersections are notched very nicely.


regards,
jack

Thanks for the bracing description and measurements Jack as I've never seen one of these in person. I've used that bracing a couple of times with very good results. I was looking to capture the ladder brace sound while avoiding the potato chip curl that ladder bracing is prone to. The lengthwise "tone-bar'' braces work to counteract that tendency. All in all that bracing seems to offer a nice alternative to the X.

Joe

The late 20's Gibson L's ( meaning learner ) guitars were very lightly ladder braced which gave them the sound and volume for such a little guitar. I played a Nick Lucas from the 30's and the deeper body really added to the sound.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866