Official Luthiers Forum! :: View topic - Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs

I've done both (PM-54A; L-N 5-1/2), but I get a thinner, less visible glue line with the joint done by hand. On stuff with a lot of grain lines, that won't be much of an issue. About even-up on time for either method, and the hand-planed joint is going to be a little stronger (although both are plenty strong enough).

Why the concern if you are already jointing by hand? It's a 2-3 minute process to pull out the shooting board, take a few swipes, check the fit, and move to glue-up...less per top if you do several during the same session.

HI Todd, I saw you tutorial on shooting boards which is what got me to thinking. Currently I use a trued level with sand paper and a shooting board. This seems to take a while to get a joint I am happy with. Lots of sanding, candleing, sanding candleing again. None of my planes are as large as what you where using. (#5 and up) plus they seem to be $200 and up for a good one unless I am missing something.

Nice lookin' top Arnt!!

sprouseod wrote:

I happen to agree with Todd that a #5 1/2 is about right size plane for jointing guitar plates, but any bench plane between #3 and #8 should work OK for this. I know a lot of really good builders swear by their jointer planes for this, others will use their #4 for everyting. And you really don't have to spend $200 on a great useable plane. I use a regular type 11 Bailey and a Hock blade and chip breaker, and I have no sesire for anything more fancy. It is essential that it is set up right and razor sharp, of course.

Here's my set up, it is one of many ways to do this.

Author:	sprouseod [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:07 am ]
Post subject:	Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
I have a Jet 6" floor stand jointer. I usually use it to get my back and sides close, then use a shooting board to finish the edge before joining the top. Just curious if anyone here gets and adequate joint with just a jointer and no shooting board Thanks Richard

Author:	JSDenvir [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:28 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Not me. I could probably do it after spending half a day tweaking the jointer till it was perfect, but why bother? The shooting board is simple and it works. Steve

Author:	stan thomison [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:34 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Use a 6x47 Griz joiner. Never have used a shooting board, never had any problems or failures with the join and have done over 100 top and backs over the years doing so. Don't spend any time doing anything on adustments for joiner very often. Seems to stay in tune from one week or day to another. Doesn't take more than a few swipes on the tool. Use light thing to make sure good join. That said for more floor space want to sell the joiner and use a smaller one and maybe a shooting deal Tracy sells.

Author:	sprouseod [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:38 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
HI Stan how much do you take off at each pass? thanks Richard

Author:	stan thomison [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:53 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Richard take off very very small amounts. I did spend time when setting up to make sure go very thin on cuts. I think a board isn't a bad idea, just don't have one and so far ok without it. I can't see my glue lines and have for vast majority of time off set front and back of plate a small distance and draw a center line to see where it is. Again once sell this joiner and get smaller one will use a shooting board if needed. I don't use the joiner all that often because build in batches and use it when doing plates and straight edge on sides, so probably will get a bench model. I know not as accurate or think probably not, but good enough if use a board. I do however make some test runs on the machine to make sure no end snipe and still set up okie dokie.

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Author:	Glenn LaSalle [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:10 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
I just jointed 2 tops this morning using a shooting board and a sharp #5. I like power tools ... but if they aren't going to make things better/faster, my position is why bother. took me no time to get a real tight joint by hand, and I am a beginner Glenn

Author:	woody b [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:16 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
I have a shooting board, but normally just use my jointer. The "trick" to using a jointer for plates is VERY sharp blades, and cutting almost nothing..........that's pretty much the same way it is with a plane. The other thing with a jointer is the beds have to be parallel.

Author:	sprouseod [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:32 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
HI Todd, I saw you tutorial on shooting boards which is what got me to thinking. Currently I use a trued level with sand paper and a shooting board. This seems to take a while to get a joint I am happy with. Lots of sanding, candleing, sanding candleing again. None of my planes are as large as what you where using. (#5 and up) plus they seem to be $200 and up for a good one unless I am missing something. So I figured since I have the jointer taking up space why not use it. Thanks for all the info Richard Todd Stock wrote: I've done both (PM-54A; L-N 5-1/2), but I get a thinner, less visible glue line with the joint done by hand. On stuff with a lot of grain lines, that won't be much of an issue. About even-up on time for either method, and the hand-planed joint is going to be a little stronger (although both are plenty strong enough). Why the concern if you are already jointing by hand? It's a 2-3 minute process to pull out the shooting board, take a few swipes, check the fit, and move to glue-up...less per top if you do several during the same session.

Author:	Arnt Rian [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:41 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
sprouseod wrote: HI Todd, I saw you tutorial on shooting boards which is what got me to thinking. Currently I use a trued level with sand paper and a shooting board. This seems to take a while to get a joint I am happy with. Lots of sanding, candleing, sanding candleing again. None of my planes are as large as what you where using. (#5 and up) plus they seem to be $200 and up for a good one unless I am missing something. I happen to agree with Todd that a #5 1/2 is about right size plane for jointing guitar plates, but any bench plane between #3 and #8 should work OK for this. I know a lot of really good builders swear by their jointer planes for this, others will use their #4 for everyting. And you really don't have to spend $200 on a great useable plane. I use a regular type 11 Bailey and a Hock blade and chip breaker, and I have no sesire for anything more fancy. It is essential that it is set up right and razor sharp, of course. Here's my set up, it is one of many ways to do this.

Author:	Shane Neifer [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:12 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Nice lookin' top Arnt!! (I couldn't resist! ) I have been using my 8" General Jointer and then finishing off with sandpaper and my tablesaw fence. But I will be going to hand plane and shooting board soon, cause I agree with Todd, a sharp plane cut probably has better adhesion (although I have had no issues with my method). Shane

Author:	Ken C [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:16 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
I just use my jointer. I get a nice tight fight without doing anything extra. A few passes over the jointer, test the fit, and glue up. Watch the grain, take a small shaving, and feed slowly and steadily. Keep the jointer bed clean and waxed. Ken

Author:	Arnt Rian [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:38 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Shane Neifer wrote: Nice lookin' top Arnt!! Good eye. You have good taste in tops, Shane!

Author:	MRS [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 6:09 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
I have a jointer but i think the shooting board is better and safer for your top wood that is. I have actually had a jointer snag and take a nice chunk out of a back board. I think a good idea is to place the sets between a pair of sacrificial boards clamp and then joint them.

Author:	SteveSmith [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 6:13 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
I used a reasonably well set up jointer set to take very light cuts on #1 and it worked ok but I plan to follow up with a shooting board on the next one.

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Author:	sprouseod [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:27 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Great I will keep an eye out on ebay Richard

Author:	GregG [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:11 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Either way will work fine......after the jointer is set up(and it needs to be perfect, but not difficult), it is a 30 second job with great results.

Author:	Frei [ Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:22 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Jointer or shooting board for joining tops and backs
Arnt Rian wrote: sprouseod wrote: HI Todd, I saw you tutorial on shooting boards which is what got me to thinking. Currently I use a trued level with sand paper and a shooting board. This seems to take a while to get a joint I am happy with. Lots of sanding, candleing, sanding candleing again. None of my planes are as large as what you where using. (#5 and up) plus they seem to be $200 and up for a good one unless I am missing something. I happen to agree with Todd that a #5 1/2 is about right size plane for jointing guitar plates, but any bench plane between #3 and #8 should work OK for this. I know a lot of really good builders swear by their jointer planes for this, others will use their #4 for everyting. And you really don't have to spend $200 on a great useable plane. I use a regular type 11 Bailey and a Hock blade and chip breaker, and I have no sesire for anything more fancy. It is essential that it is set up right and razor sharp, of course. Here's my set up, it is one of many ways to do this. Oh, Oh, thats my baby, thats the ticket!! Remember your plane has to be trued FLAT on the angle face, that messed me up for a while.